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Joined: Jan 2014
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Just Getting Started
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I have my new T.W. since last week :-))))
When did you change the oil of the engine the first time ?
S&S told on there Website to change it after 50 miles than after 500 miles....and the Morgan Owner's Hand Book said after 1000 miles or three moths.....


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Initial oil change done by dealer after factory & dealer pre-delivery inspections.

Next change at 1000 miles, then at 4000 mile service et al.

No problems. Well, not with the oil. Keeping the darned stuff in was, but all ok now..he said, with fingers crossed..


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I strictly followed S&S's recommendations as they would be the ones who know.

The factory does the first one before delivery at 50 miles. I had the 500 mile, 1000 mile and then 4000 mile services (so far).

With all of the potential issues the M3W can have, I didn't want to add to them in any way by skipping a step that the engine manufacturer told me to do.


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My one got ordinary mineral oil at about 500 and 1100 miles since then it's been synthetic every 2500 to 3000 miles.

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I did same as Red Three and changed oil myself at about 400 miles. It was totally clean and no sign of any metallic bits at all, so made me wonder what the fuss was all about. Then at 1,000 miles, then at 2,900 miles and then at 3,900 miles. Another one this October at about 4,800 miles unless I stick some longer runs in. I've got to preferring the Aero 8 for the longer runs and the M3W for little short fun runs. Keeps the miles down, the oil temperatures down, the wear down, and hopefully the bills down (a bit).

I've had more oil changes in my 2.7 year old M3W than in my almost 8 year old Aero 8! Ridiculous!!

Can't help but start to realise why they went from a V-twin to a nice simple straight 4 in the '30s. Perhaps the electric M3W will be the best thing of all and we can all make engine noises as we drive silently by in our ultra smooth, cheap to run and reliable Morgans!!!

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I suppose no one thought of spending £25 on a used oil analysis to check the condition of the oil.

It's a bit better than saying "It was totally clean and no sign of any metallic bits at all" not getting at that poster at all as the iron content is measured in parts per million.

I do it from time to time on my daily drivers and you get a full report on the oil rather than wondering if it needed changed.

With the small amounts of oil that a car or a bike needs the UOAcost is similar to the oil change cost but IMHO worth it just to check.

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Good idea and - you're right - hardly scientific and bits of metal would get into the oil filter too. But when there's the sort of wear that suggests 3 or 4 oil changes before 1000 miles you'd sort of expect huge scrapings of swarf like I used to find on the sump plug of cars when I was young and poor (and less cynical and bald).

Or 'cooked' oil and it wasn't like that either, thanks be to you-know-who!

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Has a lot to Say!
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Several items.

1 - Both cylinders are right out front. Bikes don't get that kind of airflow. On a bike the cylinder behind the lead cylinder (front) always runs hotter. This does not apply to us. Yea us!

2 - We have a 6 liter oil tank on the M3W where all bikes have a 4 liter tank. That alone, will give us a much greater latitude in how long we can go without a change. That's a 50% capacity increase. I have almost 17,000 miles and my last change almost hit the 5,000 mile mark. The oil looked great. The filter is doing its job.

3 - I don't need the cooling fans as I live where there are very few stop lights or traffic jams. The skip fire mode only happened twice, very briefly. I may wire in an oil cooler with temperature controlled fans. Or not.

4 - An oil analysis does sound like a good idea. It would be nice to actually 'know'.


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.

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