Hi, Can anyone help? My indicators ,hazard warning , heater and rear fog light are not working. All fuses appear to be good. I am strongly suspecting a fault on the MDE 4001 v1.13 dash switch module behind the dash. I have just inspected this and attach a photo which I think may show a break in a copper strip on the top right hand corner of the pcb. Has anyone any suggestions.
If the strip looks like it has a break, get or borrow a meter, put on resistance test and touch each end of the strip with one of the contacts, if you have no reading on the meter then you have a break. Take to an electronics person to fix
Adrian
Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
I have repaired circuit boards with similar breaks in copper strips.. Bit of a bodge I guess but I simply dropped a blob of solder across the break.. Lasted for years!
I've soldered a small piece of wire across a break in a circuit like that. Worked perfectly. BUT ......why did it break? On my circuit there was no fuse so the copper had expanded and broken, acted as a fuse. So you need to know what caused it to go. Nick
Some of the boards get broken because of a short circuit. This circuit is caused by water in a front indicator light. Because of this the owner tries the hazard warning lights which are not secured by a fuse. The fuse in this case is the the pcb. A quite common issue and very expensive in case that you cannot repair the pcb. So never try the hazard lights if indicator lights do not work! Of course I don't know if this was the failure in your case. Maybe it was another failure. But the reported issue is a typical reason for damaged pcbs in Morgans.
Thank you so much for your help. I did actually blow one of the fuses under the bonnet after carrying out some work on the rear winker. The problem started after I replaced the fuse. A continuity test has now been carried out and the copper strip is broken. The electrician said the copper strip had overheated and melted the pcb protective coat and that it why it shows up as bare copper. I am now awaiting an "expert" to apply a blob of solder to bridge the gap and hopefully this might solve the problem.
