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DaveW Offline OP
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So for reasons that would take too long to relate on here, oldgit I found myself planning a service this weekend. First job was to visit the Ford Dealer (only five miles down the road) to get an oil filter. This was the first stumbling block.Here you can see three filters. On the left is a Crosland 2193 which was fitted last June by a Mog specialist, but not a full Dealer. In the centre is what you get when you ask for a 3.0 V6 ST220 oil filter. On the right is the correct Ford part. Ford ref 1119421, also known as EFL600. Apparently this is a 'Zetec' filter so it appears that the same oil filter fits all three Ford engines.The price was £6.89 plus VAT. If you look closely you will see that the centre (incorrect) filter has a larger diameter female thread than the other two.

Imagine my delight this morning when I found that out....... banghead Especially since it was £12.00 plus VAT.
The next picture shows the mounting boss, and you can see from this that the threaded adaptor is interchangeable - which is how they have been able to fit the smaller diameter filter. You can also see the two water hoses (bottom left) which form a primitive heat exchanger between oil & water, This is to allow the water to heat up the oil from cold, and presumably take some heat back when the oil is really hot.

Here it is fitted looking forward.

The sump plug is easy to access on the offside..... 15mm socket does the job.

And when you get it off, it looks like this.

Note that the 'integral' sealing washer is a 'rubber' type material and has resealed OK. I described this to the Ford parts man but the one he sold me is not the right one. Not my day really, but it doesn't really matter.

Choice of oil is tricky. Morgan recommend 5/40 fully synthetic, but Ford recommend 5/30 FS. Try as I might I couldn't locate a 5/40. They seem to be 0/40 (eg Mobil 1)so I've plumped for Mobil 1 5/30 this time. Of course, being a 4litre can I ended up buying two..........

Next time I might try their top spec oil for Diesels which does come in the right 5/40 grade.

Finally a word about antifreeze. I got some to have in stock, and it comes in 1 litre bottles. Ford part number is 1336799. It's £5.30 plus VAT and at 50/50 you'll need six litres.
It's Motorcraft Super Plus 2000 spec - WSS97B44D.


That's all for now folks........ grin2 flag

P.S. When fitting the filter, fill it 3/4 with oil before screwing on. It reduces the time taken to get the pressure back up.

Last edited by DaveW; 29/05/09 08:31 PM. Reason: a P.S.

DaveW
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Thanks for sharing a very interesting topic.


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I always look forward to your posts...beautifully clear with great photos.
Regards
Gerry


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Originally Posted By beethoven9
I always look forward to your posts...beautifully clear with great photos.
Regards
Gerry


That echoes my opinion. thumbs

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DaveW Offline OP
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Thanks chaps, I appreciate that. Hopefully it will help others to get it right first time!!!!!!!!! wink


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Diesel engine oil is usually OK for petrol engines there are two US spec numbers to look for I think US MIL 45162 for petrol and US MIL 2104D etc for diesel, as long as it has both no problem.

Thinner oils save a bit of fuel but as a classic commercial engineer I would go for a thicker variety, they save engines, there is a huge amount of codswallop about oil, any decent engine oil will do, in fact it is down to addatives most of which come from the secretive Lubrisol firm in Derbyshire, so whatever oil you get the addative pack will be similar, often it is the same oil sold between the majors.

A nice 10W/40 is always a good choice, buy the cheapest branded product you recognise. It is possible to run a modern engine on a decent quality washing up detergent (not recommended but will run)

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Ford favour 5w/30 oil for their engines, my defender td5 built when ford ran Land Rover uses 5w/30 to spec ACEA A1 -B1 for diesel or petrol engines. I usually use Castrol Magnatec.

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I know a lubrication & oils professional (from within the MG world), and asked his opinion on tne 0/40 and 5/30 issue. You may be interested to hear his views......

" .......the 40 is thicker than the 30 at the same operating temperature, although if the engine is running hotter than it should the 5/40 will thin to a level equivalent to a 5/30 used in a cooler engine. So as to Morgan advising 5/40, well that may be the slightly higher running temps in the engine bay of the Morgan as opposed to the Fords. Modern tendencies are towards lower viscosity oils through the use of tighter clearances and use of synthetic base oils. Modern oils have reduced levels of certain additives to protect the CAT.

To be honest I don't think you can go wrong with Mobil1 which can be bought in 0W40 form as well as 5W30. I would recommend 0W40 as being better simply because the 0W implies it is thinner at cold start than a 5W or 10W but is a 40 grade at operating temp. The 0W will ensure rapid circulation of the oil on start-up. I used it in my KV6 engine for over 100k miles without ill effects, in fact the engine itself was one of the best in terms of fuel economy and no oil usage.

Modern full synthetic formulations have high levels of detergency and with modern electronic engine management, there is no need for diesel oils in modern engines. The Mobil1 range is pricey but then again you don't need to change it very often! I used to get 12k miles easily in the ZT on it. But if your mileage is less than 5k per year then go with a slightly cheaper full synth product.

I think oil pressure is misunderstood as it is oil flow we need to the bearings at the right viscosity, and pressure is only telling us that we have some pressure but not how much flow. Using a thicker oil will slow the flow rate of oil to the bearings yet still show a healthy oil pressure reading! Old engines with clogged arteries will show a high pressure but suffer insufficient flow. Bearings don't like oil too thick any more than they don't like it too thin, and both conditions lead to increased heat generation and increased drag on the engine.

Talking to a few experts from Shell and BP, it would appear Mobil1 is still the one to beat, and they suggest that the traditional oil film on which we rely for the bearing protection is how oils used to be developed in order to ensure good bearing clearance. But, Mobil1 allows for metal-metal contact as the pressures and heat generate a protective layer by squeezing the oil into a thin solid layer with good anti-wear protection to ensure good engine life. This would again prove that this is why we see low pressures at idle with Mobil1".


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DaveW
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the best oil is not straight forward, a few years back Jaguar stopped using fully syn in favour of part syn - not to save costs but to overcome a lubrication issue. don't know current jag specs, I'm going back 5 or 6 yrs

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DaveW Offline OP
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July 2011 update on oil filter.
The equivalent Jaguar filter is quoted as XR8E6714AB
On the box it now says XR823395 - but filter stiil shows first number.
Price is just over £9 plus VAT. More expensive than the EFL600 Ford ZETEC filter, but not the same manufacturer.
Pics will follow when I do the oil change.


DaveW
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