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#327664 23/12/15 07:53 PM
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Just noticed a crack at the top in my rear wing. Car's a 1975 4/4 and I suspect the wing has been filled and painted more than once. So, question is, if I were to get a new wing should I go GRP or alloy? Currently it's all steel. Anybody have a rough idea of cost to supply,paint and fit a rear wing? Obviously will speak to my local dealer about it. Just noticed they do Duck tape in British racing green-wonder how that repair would go...

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I had a 76 very high mileage car that had the wings replaced by a reputable dealer in GRP. They were lighter of course and superb quality: the car is still going and still looking good.

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Alloy is the best, but it does star with stones thrown up from the underside.


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Simon,
It all depends upon what you want from the car , and how deep your pockets are.

Firstly if originality is important to you , then go with steel or alloy. You can source the original pattern wings from independent suppliers, but the only ones available from MMC are the new "Superform" alloys now (IIRC). These have the headlamp pods in a different place, however these wings have solved the electrolytic corrosion issues of the wire strip which acts as the beading. I don't know the relative costs of these, but based on previous experience I would say steel, pattern alloy, Superform alloy in rising order.

If practicality is important then there is a lot to be said for GRP. These are also the cheapest option, it is also available in different "weights" , the lightest for competition cars where this is more important, right up to reinforced ones heavier ones for touring use. It also the easiest to repair from minor knocks and offs.

Secondly, Morgan wings of that vintage were handmade, and matched to the car, so a replacement wing is rarely going to look good, and you will almost certainly have to replace them as a pair, which will increase the costs of course.

Lastly fitting front wings to a trad Morgan is a complex and highly skilled task, and it takes a long time to get it right. The wings are supplied oversized, and cut to obtain the best fit. Once trial fitted correctly , they should be dismantled and painted off the car. All this takes a lot of time and the costs mount up.

Let us know what you choose to do.



Andy G
1999 +8 , Indigo Blue.
Ex-John McKecknie/Mike Duncan 1955 +4 racer.
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Thanks Andy,

my pockets are as shallow as a puddle and my car is never going to be show pony, I don't want it to be! I'll take it in to Berrybrook in the new year and have a word, see what they think. It may be that the wing can be repaired or at least prevented from worsening. I was just wondering if anybody had a rough idea what sort of costs would be involved.

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Andy , I think Simons talking about a rear wing.


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he is(!)

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Andy

If it's cracked at the top, is it across it or around the edge? Either from your description it sounds like one of two thongs, either it got dented in the past and was filled then over the years the filler has shrunk back slightly and caused the cracking or it has rusted and has caused the cracking or a combo of both. If the crack does not extend to where the wing meets the body you might be able to get away with a repair. If it's filler only the it's a matter only of rubbing back to bare metal, re-applying, preparing and finishing with primer and paint. If it is rust then if not excessive it might be repairable on situe by cutting out and having a plate mig welded in, and then finishing. If you have the paint code you should be able to get the colour, bear in mind that you need to be prepared for slight change on match due to years of sun on it. If pockets are shallow, then have a look at YouTube at how to do this type of repair for filling and paint prep, if you take your time and don't rush it is possible to do yourself, rubbing down, prep and painting, the key is careful and meticulous prep. The secret with spraying paint is right temperature and build up coats a little at a time. Then at the end very light rubbing back with 1800 grit wet and dry in soapy water, then use a medium cutting polish and then a final polish. You should leave paint at last 24 hours to harden before cutting and polishing. I would expect your car to be painted with cellulose paint from original, unless it has been resprayed.

If you need it plating then a local chap should be able to mig in a shaped plate for a reasonable fee.

I have done similar stuff in the past and it is possible to get very good results.


Adrian

Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
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I looked on the www for fibre based filling that I used to fill rust holes / bridge when I used to work on steel based cars.... Found it on amazon!!!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Reinforced-Bridging-Filler-Repairing-Bodywork/dp/B00CEEO1CS

If as Adrian says you take it back there might be an opportunity to repair it yourself

Pete

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This probably isn't that much help, but I was recently quoted/estimated £4k by Steve Barnes at Vintage Sheet Metal for all 4 wings replaced in alloy and painted. By far the largest proportion of that is going to be for the front wings, of course.

The problem with getting the existing wings repaired is that they quickly soak up hours and hours of time, which these days is very expensive. My original steel wings are starting to look very tatty as the filler that they used is cracking and lifting, so I'm busy saving to get Steve B to replace the lot rather than try extensive repairs.

I think that if I were in your position I would go to Tim Ayers at New Elms and ask him to quote you for a pair of GRP rear wings.

Last edited by Hamwich; 24/12/15 07:01 AM.

Tim H.
1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
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