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Joined: Aug 2009
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hello, my transmission its noisy when i change from first to second gear..... its normal?
best regards

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le Asbo du Bling
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what sort of noise?


Slowly going green
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First thing to do is check the oil level. If the noise is a crunch, then you're beating the synchromesh. Try a slower change. Also try the double declutch test:
Clutch down - into first - clutch up - move off
Clutch down - out of first into neutral - clutch up - clutch down - into second - clutch up. The clutch up/clutch down between gears helps to synchronise the hubs, and with practice can be done quickly. If the problem is a crunch, and this method gets rid of it - it's the synchro on second gear.
It might also be that the clutch is not disengaging properly, but I would expect a bigger noise changing from 3rd to 2nd with either cause. nerd


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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hello
sorry but my english is very poor i speak french..
i have ask tou the morgan dealer and he tell me all the aero 8 have this problem....
im surprised....

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Transmission noises on my series 3 are:

When coasting to a stop with box in 2nd and clutch depressed there is a whirring noise like a spinning ballrace or a playing card in bike spokes or shaking a box of spanners. Car is "out of gear" but all the components in the box still seem to be noisily rotating.

Slow to medium acceleration in 1st and 2nd there is a definite "chatter", sounds like gear teeth slapping each other rather than tightly engaged.

Hard acceleration - can't hear 'cos of the SP's!!

Decelerating in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, those spanners again, sounds/feels as if nothing from diff to clutch is in line.

Car has been back to Malvern for other warranty work and the written response to the noisy gearbox was:
"the drive train is very much part of the car. The aluminium chassis seems to exacerbate any noise from the transmission. On a BMW fitted with the same unit, they have so much stuffing around the car that these noises are not heard. I am afraid there is nothing much we can do about this. It is not a fault with the transmission and will not deteriorate over time. The 6speed gearbox has a lot of components and the car little soundproofing. Your car already has a rubber mounted differential which does make a big difference over the earlier cars."

I have not driven a similar Aero8 to compare, so basically I am living with my box of spanners as an example of Morgan Quirckiness hippy and still smiling every drive smile

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If your in Berkshire.. your not too far away to do a comparison or check it out.


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The thing to remember with manual gearboxes is that the gears (apart from reverse) are always in mesh. The input shaft from the gearbox has one integral gear, so when the clutch is engaged this turns at engine speed. When standing still out of gear the input shaft turns at something below 900rpm. Press the clutch down, and drag from the input shaft spigot will still rotate it slowly - (a few rpms). This input gear is in constant mesh with the laygear. The laygear is a single casting with a number of gears machined into it. Conventionally (4 speed) that would be input gear/3rd/2nd/1st/reverse. Where you have a five speed box with an 'overdrive' top I would expect a fifth ratio machined into the laygear. Direct 4th gear doesn't need a gear since it works by locking the input shaft to the output shaft. If 5th is direct then 4th/5th would be the other way round. The laygear turns as one unit, and the individual gearwheels sit on the output (third motion) shaft and freewheel at different speeds when not selected.They are helical (except reverse usually) so thrust backwards and forwards on the third motion shaft as torque is applied either way. Clearly a selected gear will deliver much more thrust than a freewheeler, but this has the potential to rattle. Between two gears (e.g. first & second) is the selector hub & baulk rings. This moves back for first, and forward for second gear in a conventional set up. Within the selector rods is a locking plate to prevent two gears being selected at the same time. Reverse is operated by inserting a gear between the laygear and the mainshaft(third motion) reverse gear which causes the third motion shaft to reverse direction. This action causes the crunch if rushed. Otherwise - crunches when changing gear are from the selector dogs which are castellated, not the gears which remain in constant mesh (apart from reverse).

So when decellerating in second with the clutch depressed, the third motion shaft(mainshaft) is being rotated by the wheels. This is rotating the laygear because second gear is locked to the mainshaft. The laygear is rotating the input shaft, and the uneven torque in slowing down is causing the gears to shunt up & down the third motion shaft. So this will whirr, and rattle.

This is a 4 Nerd post.... nerd nerd nerd nerd


DaveW
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I think wot eez saying is don't worry about it - minez the same btw so I concur with his explanation, it's a raw car.

But at least yours isn't shaking itself to bits over 70 mph smile

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Crikey, reading this lot I'm pleased mine is an automatic hide





happy3


Brian

1970 Morgan Plus 8 - Moss Box (Indigo Blue)
2014 Morgan SP1 (Rocket Red)
2015 Morgan Plus 8 (Rocket Blue)
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Originally Posted By Aeroman
Crikey, reading this lot I'm pleased mine is an automatic hide

happy3


My thoughts exactly Brian!


Aero 8 GTN. #10

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