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Old Book
by Morganmike - 21/09/26 07:54 PM
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Feb 2016
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Talk Morgan Expert
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OP
Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Feb 2016
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Hi Nick,
Your worries pale into significance when you here my story!
In my S1 yeaterday when I was buzzing along the road between Burford and Stow at a steady 50 mph when all of a sudden there was a bit of a "lurch" to the LHS and I was overtaken by my rear wheel !!! By luck/fate I managed to "glide" into a layby about 300m along the road. Getting out to first of all stop the shaking in my legs, I looked at the rear wing and luckily it was only slightly buckled and the stub axle saved from serious damage due to the rear disc and the new side exit silencer taking all the weight. The wheel was in a ditch over 100m in front of me but the issue was -where was the nut (other than the one driving the car!) So, I walked back along the road and luckily found it in a ditch half a mile away !!
The RAC sent a recovery truckand we managed to jack the car up with an assortment of wooden blocks and the wheel went on and the thread was ok!The grub screw was still in the nut and was about 6mm through onto the axle slot. It had new tyres recently and I witnessed them tightening the nut up and tightening the grub screw.
Now the real puzzle - the same thing happened a year ago and on the same corner - that time it was a new stub axle. So, what is happening? I did notice on the nut, that the "mating" surface was very small - judging by the amount of scoring on the surface. Could this be the issue ie the nut is just not gripping the wheel sufficiently??
Sorry for the long ramble but I am seriously thinking about "moving on" as it really could have been a very serious accident
T
Nick - just check your nuts!!
Wow that sounds very scary, I am glad you are ok and the car isn't too badly damaged. It sounds to me like there is an issue with the thread (possibly minutley damaged) or the lock nut which is causing it to work lose. Perhaps the use of some thread lock or a replacement of the hub/nut would be best for peace of mine? I must admit I have checked them a few times, but I do trust RTCC know how to tighten them! If not I think I would walk away also.. Regards, Nick
Aero 8 GTN #11
"What we do in life.. echoes in eternity."
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Sir S1'a'lot Talk Morgan Expert
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Sir S1'a'lot Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,050 Likes: 12 |
Aston vs Morgan
Horses for courses as alway
I love an Aston proably more than most but the Aero is always my first choice.
This wheel falling offgate is strange.
If the grub screw had not come loose and it was positioned into a cut out on the end of the spline how can the nut come undone?
2002 Aero 8 S1
2023 Plus 4 (woman’s)
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,446 Likes: 78
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,446 Likes: 78 |
Wow Taffy just glad your ok mate and nobody else injured.The grub screw cant have been located correctly in the slot or maybee you need a slightly longer one.For new Aero owners on the series 1 the wheels should be checked (re tightened)after a very short drive if the wheels have been removed.I personally would like to have seen a pin go right through the nut like the race cars but that doesent help you Taffy.
Em
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 38
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 38 |
further too aerotaff's comment I was told that the nuts need re-torquing when warm. What are peoples opinion on the correct torque? I heard 200 lb/ft but that is a lot less than Porsche centre locks according to other forums.
Nick. Most of those issues should be easy to solve they probably have occurred with it having little use recently. Mine had the stalling issue and I needed to replace a cam sensor and the maf. Just keep on top of the battery charge and it should be reliable.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,446 Likes: 78
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,446 Likes: 78 |
Aero 250 I use an extension on the bar supplied and stand on it about 18 ins after the end of the bar if you know what i mean, we had a hell of a job getting the wheels off at the last service but they aint coming off in a hurry.Dont know what the torque setting is but changeing the wheel down a dark lane could be a bit of a faff..
Em
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Dec 2007
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The correct torque is 350ft/lb or 45kg/m. However that's not the full story.
Wheel nuts should be tightened with the weight off the wheels, after the mating surfaces and been cleaned and smeared with a smidgen of anti-corrosion grease. I use copperslip but understand there is an silver grease from Castrol forgotten the name, that is even bette.
Once nuts are tight they should be undone a quarter turn and then retightened to 350ft/lb. Only at this point should grub screw be inserted. It is also important to ensure that the grub stress lines up properly with the castellation.
These Oz wheels have caused quite a few problems over the years and a lot of discussion? However used properly they are, in my mind, a great feature of the car.
Cheers
Philip
1985 Plus 8 four seater
Malone F1000 - track car
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2014
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wow!  - pleased you are OK Taffy and that the car has not suffered too much damage. I always 'swing' on the stainless steel bar when re-fitting my wheels and have used a marker (actually Tippex !) so that I know where the grub screw needs to locate. I suspect there will be a lot of checking and re-checking of Series 1 , Aero8 wheels over the next few weeks.....  James
Aero8 , Series 1 - Boston Green
RR Evoque P300E Autobiography
Smart Brabus Convertible
Monkey Z125
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 62
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 62 |
Don't get me wrong, I loved the Aston and every three months or so feel the temptation to return.
But £2500 for an annual routine service and £3500 for a new clutch at 28k miles!!!
Running costs of the Aero have been, annual service and MOT circa £400, new battery circa £150 and new MAF and Heater control valve were around £120 each, so three years of aero < one year of aston.
The story with the new clutch at £28k is what did it for me. I had the semi automatic clutch on the Vantage, essentially a manual style friction clutch operated by very basic electronics. When in it went in for its service at 28k, was told by Aston that it would need it's second clutch. I said what do you mean a second clutch it's only done 28k of largely motorway miles. Sir we have never heard of anyone getting more than 20K out of one of these clutches you have done very well - and that will be £3500!!!
Notwithstanding Aston's still beautiful to look at and beautiful to drive but not an Aero
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Feb 2010
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Hi Nick,
Your worries pale into significance when you here my story!
In my S1 yeaterday when I was buzzing along the road between Burford and Stow at a steady 50 mph when all of a sudden there was a bit of a "lurch" to the LHS and I was overtaken by my rear wheel !!! By luck/fate I managed to "glide" into a layby about 300m along the road. Getting out to first of all stop the shaking in my legs, I looked at the rear wing and luckily it was only slightly buckled and the stub axle saved from serious damage due to the rear disc and the new side exit silencer taking all the weight. The wheel was in a ditch over 100m in front of me but the issue was -where was the nut (other than the one driving the car!) So, I walked back along the road and luckily found it in a ditch half a mile away !!
The RAC sent a recovery truckand we managed to jack the car up with an assortment of wooden blocks and the wheel went on and the thread was ok!The grub screw was still in the nut and was about 6mm through onto the axle slot. It had new tyres recently and I witnessed them tightening the nut up and tightening the grub screw.
Now the real puzzle - the same thing happened a year ago and on the same corner - that time it was a new stub axle. So, what is happening? I did notice on the nut, that the "mating" surface was very small - judging by the amount of scoring on the surface. Could this be the issue ie the nut is just not gripping the wheel sufficiently??
Sorry for the long ramble but I am seriously thinking about "moving on" as it really could have been a very serious accident
T
Nick - just check your nuts!!
If the wheels and wheel nuts are not put back on the same axle stubs that they were removed from, IE NSR wheel goes back on NSR hub etc, then the grub screws will not line up with the slot cut in the stub axle. The slots were cut into the stub axles as a dealer recall after several cars lost wheels. And it was done by the simple expedient of tightening up the replacement wheel nuts, marking through the grub screw hole with a pen, then removing everything and filing a slot onto the stub axle. Manufacturing tolerances being what they are, it is very unlikely that one nut will fit onto another stub axle and the grub screw will line up. Incidentally, on the GT Cup Aero we just tightened the wheels up to 380 lbs/ft and never had one fall off Simon@Sifab.co.uk
Simon @ Sifab.co.uk
Sifabtemporary@gmail.com
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,597
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,597 |
Hi Nick,
Your worries pale into significance when you here my story!
In my S1 yeaterday when I was buzzing along the road between Burford and Stow at a steady 50 mph when all of a sudden there was a bit of a "lurch" to the LHS and I was overtaken by my rear wheel !!! By luck/fate I managed to "glide" into a layby about 300m along the road. Getting out to first of all stop the shaking in my legs, I looked at the rear wing and luckily it was only slightly buckled and the stub axle saved from serious damage due to the rear disc and the new side exit silencer taking all the weight. The wheel was in a ditch over 100m in front of me but the issue was -where was the nut (other than the one driving the car!) So, I walked back along the road and luckily found it in a ditch half a mile away !!
The RAC sent a recovery truckand we managed to jack the car up with an assortment of wooden blocks and the wheel went on and the thread was ok!The grub screw was still in the nut and was about 6mm through onto the axle slot. It had new tyres recently and I witnessed them tightening the nut up and tightening the grub screw.
Now the real puzzle - the same thing happened a year ago and on the same corner - that time it was a new stub axle. So, what is happening? I did notice on the nut, that the "mating" surface was very small - judging by the amount of scoring on the surface. Could this be the issue ie the nut is just not gripping the wheel sufficiently??
Sorry for the long ramble but I am seriously thinking about "moving on" as it really could have been a very serious accident
T
Nick - just check your nuts!!
If the wheels and wheel nuts are not put back on the same axle stubs that they were removed from, IE NSR wheel goes back on NSR hub etc, then the grub screws will not line up with the slot cut in the stub axle. The slots were cut into the stub axles as a dealer recall after several cars lost wheels. And it was done by the simple expedient of tightening up the replacement wheel nuts, marking through the grub screw hole with a pen, then removing everything and filing a slot onto the stub axle. Manufacturing tolerances being what they are, it is very unlikely that one nut will fit onto another stub axle and the grub screw will line up. Incidentally, on the GT Cup Aero we just tightened the wheels up to 380 lbs/ft and never had one fall off Simon@Sifab.co.uk I had exactly the same thing happen some years ago but fortunately at slow speed. The problem is exactly as Simon describes, the GRUB SCREW MUST GO INTO THE SLOT OF THE STUB AXLE, I had not realised this and just tighted the grub screw as far as I could onto the stub axle casing. This missing the slot leaves the grub screw 2 or 3mm proud in the wheel nut and is an immediate warning more rotation of the wheel nut is required. Glad no injuries or major damage.
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