Bite the bullet AJ. I think we need all the tire we have back there. If you are a little handy with a wrench (spanner) its not too bad a job to change the hub. The new hub is about $450 US and there are some good "How to's" on the TM website.
While I have no alignment problem on my 2014, the drive belt was fiddle string tight. I backed off the adjusting screws one full turn, resulting in near zero tension, and am much happier. Far less load on the bearings, and hopefully less wear on the rear sprocket, seems to roll easier too. BTW, an axle nut wrench for a swing arm VW fits the big nut perfect, and 15/16" fits the head of the axle bolt, photo att.
On the subject of belt tension checked out mine at the end of the factory build. Apparently they use a device to set belt tension although didn't get the chance to see what it is.
I did do the twist test midway in the run though. Got little more than 30° although 45° mentioned elsewhere in this thread. Wonder if this allows for a little initial stretch.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
While I have no alignment problem on my 2014, the drive belt was fiddle string tight. I backed off the adjusting screws one full turn, resulting in near zero tension, and am much happier. Far less load on the bearings, and hopefully less wear on the rear sprocket, seems to roll easier too. ...
No slip under hard acceleration? Mine is still slipping on occasions - will check it when I next take the boot cover out. Perhaps I need to drive it like a Wellington rather than a Spitfire?
Have not had much opportunity for testing yet. Did one short test drive, got on it,and could not detect any slip. I would think for slip to occur, likely on the small pulley, there would need to be either a very loose belt, or a lot of stretch. As things wear, I will monitor the tension, checking at each bevel box oil change.
Calum wrote a very good report of how to change the hub, if you search for "Hub and Sprocket Change" you should be able to find it.
In the same post I added a some info of how I modified the existing hub to achieve the same results by machining 5mm off of the wheel flange of the hub. The flange was reduced from 20 to 15mm. thickness. Maybe not as desirable as a new hub but it only cost me £30. I also fitted the new steel pulley a few weeks later.
The belt now runs in the middle of the pulley with about 3mm clearance between belt and tyre. I have done at least 1000 miles since the mod with no problems, it drives better and is a lot quieter.
Thanks Mike - I have seen Calums report - it is excellent,I will follow it closely. I thought about machining the face of the wheel flange but was a little concerned about the loss of thickness. It is only 'soft' aluminium after all Are the wheel bolts threaded into it?
I noticed a little "squelching" noise when not under power, so I checked my belt tonight. The belt is running on the outside of the pulley, rubbing ever so slightly the flange. If I move the belt back to the center of the pulley, and roll the car back and forth it will move back to the outside position again and rub. I assume I have developed a belt alignment problem. I just had it tuned up and checked out 500 miles ago. Does anyone know where I can find a link to the procedure for realigning this. It seems pretty straight forward, but it doesn't hurt to check. Also - I got home from a 10 minute ride from work, pulled the back trunk pan out, ate dinner and when I reached in and touched the rear of the bevel box it was still warm - is this normal?
