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#366913 26/05/16 01:53 PM
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One way or another I have removed and replaced the lens on an awful lot of turn signals over the last 50 years but I have never had anything as frustrating as the front turn signal on a Morgan. In fact I don't remember ever having any problems at all.

The front left hand turn signal had stopped working intermittently but a bump with my hand would get it going again.

I pulled the lens off and discovered that the light plastic insulator around the contact had distorted and sunk back into the spring. I managed to get it back through the spring and straighten it out but I am sure it will go again in time.

I then tried to put the lens back on. Two hours of frustration ensued. The screws and the captive "nuts" are brass and any misalignment not only damages the threads but makes it impossible to even get them started. In desperation I even filed the ends of the screws to tapers in an effort to get them to self align. The real problem seems to be the captive "nuts", they are very loosely held in place and any pressure just pushes them to one side.

In the end I managed to get the top screw in but I have given up on the bottom. I will use a little clear silicon to block the hole.

As far as I am concerned they are bits of absolute rubbish!!!

swear banghead swear banghead swear banghead


Peter

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LUCAS - the prince of darkness.... hide





(even in reproduction they managed to keep up the spirit..)

Last edited by numog; 26/05/16 01:59 PM.

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Originally Posted By Gambalunga

I pulled the lens off and discovered that the light plastic insulator around the contact had distorted and sunk back into the spring. I managed to get it back through the spring and straighten it out but I am sure it will go again in time.

I had the same happen to mine - but they were fibre rather than plastic 'washers'. After straightening them I put some insulating tape over them so that they were slightly thicker, and therefore less likely to pull back through the spring. It also helped to keep the flimsy connector in place so that didn't disappear through the washer.


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So is there a decent replacement available. I imagine some Chinese company would be happy to make an LED replacement at a fraction of the cost. If Morgan use about 2000 a year just for production it should be worth the effort.


Peter

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Hi Peter

One time at Mulfab I spotted some off cuts of thin ally sheet that Peter had from his radiator manufacturing...in exchange for putting the kettle on he gave me a handful of off cuts and I planned using them for switch brackets etc. Then I hit the same problem you have, compounded by the brass thread inserts in the laps backing onto 'fresh air' instead of a body panel!

I spent the next couple of hours making 6 'backing discs' which I spent a happy afternoon fitting between the lamp bodies and the mounting plinths..in effect giving me a backing plate. One the lamp bodies are fitted and tightened the lenses can be removed without the brass threaded slugs moving. It's a winter job mate, good radio on and a pot of coffee time ;-).



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Sounds good Colin but I think I will go a step further and fix in some LEDs while I am at it. Heat seems to be part of the problem.

They are an oddball size at 3.25" or 83mm. New ones are available for £62.40 incl VAT for a pair. Made in England is all very well but this is bl@@dy ridiculous.


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Totally agree with you........I did the backing plates after spending 10min roadside trying to get a screw back in after a bulb change before taping the lense back on and sorting it at home!


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I use bath sealant to hold the nuts in place.
I agree they can be a right bugger

Last edited by John V6; 26/05/16 04:18 PM.

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I pushed a small piece of rubber hose over the nut to hold it in place and also guide the screw to the thread.Worked OK but I think I'll try Colins method next time.


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I used tape to hold the brass "nuts" in place to allow the screws to be located. Not a good design, but then they are Lucas!
I eventually replaced my nearside unit due to the bulb getting stuck due to rust. I sealed the under wing area with silicone and resprayed Dinitrol to prevent further water ingress. I will try to find an internet source I came across that sells individual components....screws,nuts,seals,bulb holders etc..the original light had filled to halfway with rainwater, a common problem by all accounts. I drilled small drain holes to let it out until the replacement arrived.
On my previous car...1993 4/4, the rear light failed. It was a poor earth found using the "wiggle test".
I stripped the light, cleaned it and made a new earth, dabbed petroleum jelly over it as a cure.
It is worth checking for corrosion,bad earths etc in older light units. Lucas, poor seals etc arenot a good long term combination!


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