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Joined: Feb 2015
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During a run today the in my 4/4 1.8 Ford zetec black top the battery warning light came on, but the voltmeter still showing +12volts. Arriving back, switching off, then restarting the engine, it came on again together with the check engine light showing, in addition the fuel & temp gauges are now erratic, fluctuating from 'correct' to zero.
Any ideas please?

Joined: Aug 2011
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Originally Posted By Island Mog
During a run today the in my 4/4 1.8 Ford zetec black top the battery warning light came on, but the voltmeter still showing +12volts. Arriving back, switching off, then restarting the engine, it came on again together with the check engine light showing, in addition the fuel & temp gauges are now erratic, fluctuating from 'correct' to zero.
Any ideas please?


Sounds like you have a faulty instrument control module (Part No. MDE 1750)
Not an uncommon fault on "Black Top" Zetecs.
Your dealer would be able to quickly check and replace (Cost £98 when mine was replaced in 2007)



Bud
4/4 "Stanley"
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Bud,
Thank you very much for the quick reply, will check up tomorrow.


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Peter T
2015 Plus 4. Sport Ivory 2 seater.
Joined: Jun 2014
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If it's the control module they are unfortunately a bit more than that now, I looked at replacing mine when the indicator warning sound stopped but at over £300 quoted from Morgan decided I could manage ok without. When my warning lights went haywire it was down to the pcb behind the dash that gets wet and burns out some of the connections. A judicious amount of solder sorted everything out and it was still working when I sold the car two years ago.
Can't tell you much more than that unfortunately as the work was completed by the, brilliant, guy who looks after my car, I wouldn't have a clue where to start.


Andrew
'Alice' 2013 Duratec Plus 4. Pearl Blue
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Unfortunately, despite previously thinking that my problem had been sorted by cleaning various multipin connectors under the bonnet, it returned! A diagnostic check by recommended Auto Electrician indicated a lambda sensor problem, however, further checks on multiple connectors behind the dash & everything returned to normal, no sensor replaced,...except that on the way home, the revs increased when the clutch was depressed, it is particularly noticeable from 2nd. to 3rd. & 3rd. to 4th! It also seems to be running higher rpm at tickover, up to 1200. Checking with my local MOG dealer, who services the car, they cannot understand these symptoms, l'm in no way mechanical, have scoured TM today but cannot find any similar problem. Any suggestions please.


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Peter T
2015 Plus 4. Sport Ivory 2 seater.
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Grasping at straws here Peter but did you also try re-seating the 104 pin ECU connector? Perhaps breaking and mating a few times? Probably best to disconnect the battery first if you decide to as there will be power on the unit even when the ignition is off.

Good luck and do post back when you have found it.


Roger
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My car has had exactly the same symptoms since I bought it in 2008.
I replaced the instrument module pnce, when all the instruments except tank and ampmeter died.
New module had no influence on the battery light on my car.
I learnt to live with it. My other instruments function normally though.



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Roger,
Thank you very much for your suggestion, will try it tomorrow!


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Peter T
2015 Plus 4. Sport Ivory 2 seater.
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Geir
Thank you, will post result of Roger's suggestion!

Last edited by Island Mog; 21/11/16 10:35 PM. Reason: Spelling

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Peter T
2015 Plus 4. Sport Ivory 2 seater.
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Could be a bad earth somewhere.

Regarding multipin ECU connections I had what I thought was dirty fuel or carburettor problems on a Suzuki 1100 motorcycle outfit. The bike had not been run for some time when I bought it and when it started running erratically I found the carburettors full of gunk. Once cleaned it went ok, for a while banghead I must have dismantled the carburettors a dozen times, once even in the middle of the desert near Bourke. I found someone to lend me a drum and even drained and filtered the fuel.

I had unpluged and replugged the ECU a couple of times but always with the power off. In one crazy and exasperated moment, whilst the bike was running like a hairy nanny goat, I reached down and unplugged and replugged it whilst in motion. Problem solved. Obviously the jolt of current fixed something rather than blowing it up.

I do not recommend this sort of treatment except between consenting adults smile


Peter

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