Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Aero 8, 2012< Plus 8, SuperSports, Coupe & Aeromax Plus 8 Speaker Upgrade

The setup you have choose can do the job, the size of the speaker is good, the amp i recommend you 4X 80 W min to 120W, if you want big bass got to US brand Rocksford / Fosgate , Infinity , Pyle , Crunch if you want more medium & tweeter But with lower bass) go for Piooner, Kenwood, Alpine.

Before choose you amp's be sure your source have 4 low level source out (not all have that)

As you will do the job, if you don't want to have the engine in your speaker use strong ground to the radio and the amp's and avoid to let the amp's to any ECU or electronic module of the Car.

Inspired by this thread I dug out the manual for the cars radio / hi fi to see what I have got. Its 575 pages long!! OK the english language bit is a mere 191 pages but life's altogether too short to be bothered with that.

On the bike I sing to myself. I shall have to do the same in the car! I've got a built in sub woofer anyway.

Surely in a Morgan, a built in woofer is nailing a Labrador to the passenger seat....

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk

have you finish your installation ?

It will be done Monday.
I'm going to try the JLC amp I have on hand bridged to provide 140w per channel--we'll see if it works. If not, I'll try stepping up the power.

should work but bridged amp's damage (a little) the sound quality, we mainly use for bass or subwoofer

Plan 2: Half complete

Before I get into this boring write-up, does anyone know how to get a power lead from the battery (engine bay) to the rear of the car? I could not find a traceable wire.

Giving a write-up while this is fresh in my head--probably won't be able to get back to the Aero for final install until next week. Hoping our little community can learn the challenges associated with installing a modern head unit and excising those horrid 4-inch stock speakers.

Work to date: mocked-up placement of 6 3/4-inch speakers, tweeters, cross-overs, amp, and associated wiring. Wired speakers to old head unit and gave it a listen.

To be completed:
- Find a way to get power to the amp
- Install amp
- Finalize tweeter location
- Install head unit
- Button it all up

Regarding speaker placement:
Not many options 6 3/4-inch speakers. Utilized the stock holes for the 6 3/4-inch speakers. Getting or fab'ing a new backing board (the vertical board behind the seats) was not an easy option. The largest issue is speaker depth. Cutout hole is not 5 5/8 inch. The backing board has a stamp in the middle for rigidity, and while unproven, making larger holes could make the board weak.
The 6 3/4-inch are ~3-inches deep--that's about as deep as you can go in the stock speaker location without getting into clearance issues with the fuel tank and emissions equipment.

For the tweeters- I couldn't find a lot of good options for surface mount. My primary with a surface mount behind the seats was accidentally ripping a tweeter loose (I actually use the parcel shelf and area behind the seats), and routing wires. Ultimately I chose a location that is sub-optimal placement for sound quality, but is one of the few areas that is: easily accessible for wiring, does not put the tweeters and a "danger area", does not put the tweeters behind the roof when it's folded down. If the tweeters are not coming through I explore other options.

Regarding cross-over installation: the cross-overs are rather large and there was no room to place them behind the mounting panel. For now, they are tucked away on the passenger side of the trunk. The installation is clean, and it is very easy to pass wiring through the existing trunk hinge (thus obviating drilling another hole in the car).

Sound quality: lacking the head unit and amp: WOW, an order of magnitude better. Obviously going from a crappy 4" to higher-end 6 3/4" is going to be better.

In sum: For a minimal amount of money (~$200 for "good enough" speakers), it is possible to install 6 3/4" speakers that allow you to listen to enjoy music and talk at highway speed without any "tin can" sound effects.


Hope some of you find this of value. My next update will have the finished product. I'm sure we're all as sick as I am of seeing an undying thread on speaker.

You have 2 ways

A/ install the amp in the panel board with the rear speaker
B/ install it down the dashboard

in option A more cable to bring but more simple than push all the mess down the dashboard

PS: better to remove the seat before think witch way is better, and wait for buy the cable you will need
PS2: the bigger cable for the amp's the better, include ground one

At the time in have the hand in the grease when i can't find a simple way for the wire, we remove the driver seat ( he is supposed to be moved less than passenger)
and you run your cable along the console use Duct Tape for stick them well.
if in that side no space down the door you should have a tunnel almost the manufacturer use that space for bring their cable from front to rear.

The trick for remove the seat is start from the back and after remove the 2 screw in front

i hope you enjoy your hard work