It sounds like you needed building regs on the first design as it's attached to the house and it being a sizeable development so yes you would need building regs on the new design so new designs showing the structure and depths of footing and all construction, insulation etc
If it's not within permitted development then you will need planning permission as well but I am sure you've had advice from whoever is drawing up the design
You can do quite a lot now on existing houses without planning permission but you will need building regs I am sure because the structure is being attached to the house
2008 XXVII Platform, Bugatti Blue Roadster 4 Seater
Hopefully I can get away with submitting the original plans for the general construction. Then after that,from what you say get building regs for the differing internal aspects (utility connections/insulation/ceiling etc) that I would now like after seeing some of the results and ideas on this thread.
All this just to keep the car warm and cosy. It's not a garage I need, it's therapy !
I think the best thing is to get a dialogue going with the local council building control
I've found over recent years when dealing with commercial properties that because in England you can use private Biulding Control companies, that your local council people have become more willing to engage and advise informally and be a bit more open to change
2008 XXVII Platform, Bugatti Blue Roadster 4 Seater
is the garage integral with the house, or free standing?
Free standing garages, even if attached to the house but not part of it, are not required to have any more than single skin brick walls, are not required to have a DPC and are not required to have any insulation under the roof tiles.
A garage built this way will be likely be damp and need dehumidifying. All the houses we had before this one were so.
This time our garage is part of the house, there is a room above (spare bedroom) and behind (the utility room) and so it has all the insulation, including cavity wall and double glazed window, of a normal dwelling room, including the floor slab. It is bone dry and if I turn on the radiator, as warm as the rest of the house.
A very good point Peter, it is indeed freestanding, single brick and no insulation.. It is also at a low point to the surrounding buildings and garden so perhaps that draws more moisture in.
Usually air sits around 75/85% humidity in my garage and over 95rh when raining out. Dehumidifier drops it to about 55/60rh but as soon as the tank fills it will rise back up again within a day if I have forgotten to empty it.
Probably average 5l a day, which is a lot for a garage with sealed doors..
At one time the rule of thumb was 100mm of concrete on the floor that is now 150mm of concrete. If putting in a two post and the vast majority of people do not have the head room or want a garage too out of contect with the house 200mm of concrete is best.
Also be serious about the electrical supply if you intened to use it as a workshop, no need if it is just lights and a couple of small power tools to be used.
A friend run a 2.5mm cable to his garage as he was only going to use it to store his car. He started spraying etc and a heavy duty compressor and heating soom started blowing mcb's.
We have 150mm sheets between the joists in the loft. For a garage I'd screw batons to the wall, fix the Celotex and finish with a breather sheet before covering with ply or waterproof plaster board.
Unfortunately there isn't anything you can do to the floor slab.
My neighbour built his new home about 7 years ago: he is a builder. The garage, which like our house, is semi integral, has 150mm Celotex under the floor slab AND underfloor hot water heating. He keeps the garage at 15C in the winter as he is a collector/restorer of vintage Lambrettas... Would be prefect for a Morgan!
Peter, 66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
We have 150mm sheets between the joists in the loft.
Agreed that Celotex is best, our architect specified 150mm in two layers, 100mm and 50mm, apparently the additional reflective layer gives significantly better performance.
I wouldn't say it's cheap though, it's around £30 a sheet for 100mm and £15 for 50mm. We got through loads of the stuff in the roof and under the floor.
Tim H. 1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
Another vote here for Celotex. Not cheap but bloomin' good stuff..! I used it in the workshop between the wooden battens as people have described, plus I have three inches of polystyrene under the base.
It's better insulated than my house..!!
It's a b'stard to work with, though. Cutting it throws up a lot of dust which gets everywhere and isn't that nice to either breathe or blink in.
I drove up to Derbyshire to get a load of excess off a site for a deal, and keep an eye on eBay if money's tight.
