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Originally Posted By Mark jackson
If there is petrol and a cranking battery, then it is either no spark or miss timed spark. MAF would not allow any fuel to be added, but there is some, so that is OK. Likewise lambas, as the engine should catch and run with these fatly, but in a "limp home setting with a specific fault code.

Miss timed would be coolant related or cam/crank sensor related, likely coolant given the earlier issues. When cold the engine has an air pump system and will change the ignition timing and fuelling to suit. When hot the sender may be telling the engine something else that causes it to over fuel which will simply put the spark out. the long wait is more likely the plugs drying than the car cooling down. Pull one out and odds on it will be wet and sooty.


Mark- What is the solution for this problem? I cannot locate the sensor on this pelican parts step-by-step instructions.

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If Really stuck for a workshop you can trust and don't mind dabbling yourself you could try an online support option such as

https://shop.myautoaid.com/

Using the diagnostic tool you can get assistance with the particular results you read over the internet

https://shop.myautoaid.com/diagnostic-tool/pro/bmw/ gives you an idea of how deep they can diagnose on BMW stuff but obviously with the Mog it's primarily the power train side of things.

It could be worth contacting Morgan and ask what diagnostics they would recommend


Mark - No Longer driving
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Originally Posted By Mateo

More info for you to mull over: The confusing bit is that it fires up and runs perfectly well after the car has been sitting for ~5 hours. If I start it, and leave it running for more than 10 minutes it will not restart.


But if you start the car and dont switch it off, does it keep running as normal or does it die on you?

I tried to help by phoning MMC and talking to their service people. They were very unhelpful, even agressive when I suggested that it was possible to think of a solution without having full ODB2 readouts. Whatever happened to old style mechanicking skills? Anyway if thats the level of service they offer, I wont buy a Morgan.

Last edited by howard; 08/11/16 09:47 AM.
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Originally Posted By howard
But if you start the car and dont switch it off, does it keep running as normal or does it die on you?

I tried to help by phoning MMC and talking to their service people. They were very unhelpful, even agressive when I suggested that it was possible to think of a solution without having full ODB2 readouts. Whatever happened to old style mechanicking skills? Anyway if thats the level of service they offer, I wont buy a Morgan.

Morgan is one of the few car companies where you can even get to talk to someone about a problem. Even at big dealers it may be impossible to ask advice from a mechanic.

I don't think it is fair to expect the sort of help over the phone that you may get from a mate who is a mechanic. We are all trying to help but without actually having the car we are only guessing, educated guesses for some, but still guessing.


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I disagree Gambalunga. Just to fob off with no friendly attempt to help is a good indicator of attitude. Had he worked for me and responded like that to a query, he would have been disciplined.

Anyway someone else I spoke to suggests the likely culprit is the mass air sensor. If the OP disconnects this sensor the car should still start and run albeit maybe into limp home mode. However if he does disconnect the sensor and the car does start it indicates that the sensor is the likely culprit and worth replacing.

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By howard

Anyway someone else I spoke to suggests the likely culprit is the mass air sensor.


A few years ago I was on a jaunt with some fellow Morganeers, and one of them had issues with his Plus 8. I was talking to the AA guy who attended to sort out he problem, and he said that by far the majority of all the breakdowns (as opposed to running out of fuel/punctures etc) he attended were MAF issues.

It's certainly the place I would start looking.


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Originally Posted By Mateo
Any ideas? I pulled the OBDII code "C0200" but I cannot find any corresponding information.


C: indicates a chassis fault code including ABS
0: indicates it is an OBDII generic code
200: indicates a "Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit" fault.

This would relate to the functioning of the ABS system. It would be important to have it fixed. It could simply be a bad or unplugged connection.

Needless to say it would have nothing to do with the failure of the car to start when it is warm.

Code
C0200

Make
BMW

Description
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit

As I said before; if you download Torque Pro you can set up gauges and/or digital displays which will give you realtime readouts of what the ECU is reading from the sensors. Temperature will be fairly obvious but the reading from the MAF sensor may have to be compared with another car that has the same engine. I believe there are people on this forum who use Torque Pro and have the same engine so once you have the reading at specific engine speeds (say 2000 rpm whilst parked), and whilst you are trying to start the car, someone may be able to give you an idea if the readings are out of the norm.

I certainly wouldn't start pulling things apart without some information such as this. In any case once you have eliminated the coolant, and perhaps other temperature sensors, by checking actual readouts it would rather point to the MAF sensor.


Last edited by Gambalunga; 08/11/16 02:49 PM.

Peter

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I found a repair shop with a good history of working on BMW V8s. The Aero will be taking a oneway trip this weekend--here's to hoping for the best!
Has anyone tried this bonnet and wing removal procedure?

I'm far more worried about the body than the engine.

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I have not removed the wings personally, but it's not a difficult procedure having watch a mechanic do so.

With respect to the issue you have, I had a problem with my S1 being hestitant under hard acceleration, the cause of this being to the inlet head manifold bolts. They are a stud with an inverted mushroom shape sleeve with a hard rubber between the inlet manifold and the sleeve, the stud when clamped down is a fixed length and the rubber forces the head onto the gasket between engine block and inlet manifold. What happens is that the rubber compresses and creeps with time. This causes pressure to decrease to the inlet manifold and can then result in air leaks to the inlet manifold and mixture issues. This problem becomes worse when engine gets warm. So your starting issue could be due to this. I found that if I forced the hesitation under hard acceleration then a fault code would occur indicating mixture issues.

The problem described is discussed at length in the V8 website link I posted. I have known of two other cars with this issue. I would ask the BMW specialist to replace the head bolt sleeves along with new rubbers as a precaution whilst they have it. Each one is £2.71 and there are 10, and it only takes about 1 hour to do once the bonnet is off.


Adrian

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Originally Posted By AJSki2fly
I have not removed the wings personally, but it's not a difficult procedure having watch a mechanic do so.

With respect to the issue you have, I had a problem with my S1 being hestitant under hard acceleration, the cause of this being to the inlet head manifold bolts. They are a stud with an inverted mushroom shape sleeve with a hard rubber between the inlet manifold and the sleeve, the stud when clamped down is a fixed length and the rubber forces the head onto the gasket between engine block and inlet manifold. What happens is that the rubber compresses and creeps with time. This causes pressure to decrease to the inlet manifold and can then result in air leaks to the inlet manifold and mixture issues. This problem becomes worse when engine gets warm. So your starting issue could be due to this. I found that if I forced the hesitation under hard acceleration then a fault code would occur indicating mixture issues.

The problem described is discussed at length in the V8 website link I posted. I have known of two other cars with this issue. I would ask the BMW specialist to replace the head bolt sleeves along with new rubbers as a precaution whilst they have it. Each one is £2.71 and there are 10, and it only takes about 1 hour to do once the bonnet is off.


Thanks for the tip Adrian.

The N62 seems to be a robust engine, but there's also a lot that can cause the symptoms I'm experiencing. Unfortunately without diagnostic gear I just don't have enough data take the engine apart.

I will get the Aero to a BMW specialist Tuesday after our holiday here in the States.

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