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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,578 Likes: 105
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,578 Likes: 105 |
Best way of taking rad out on Plus 4 is to take the cowl off, undo the tie rods and bottom mounts pull it out from the top.
Can't see why you'd upset the tracking if the locknuts are tight on the track rods ends and you've the proper splitter
You'll still find radiator repairers, most now do commercial radiators, heat exchangers and air con units.
Arwyn
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943 |
BTW: I have no luck dropping the rad out the bottom. I remove the grill, loosen the rod that goes between the inner fenders, twist rad and pull out the front. Just need a little wiggle room between the innerfenders and wings.
Remember to ground the rad or else Your temp gauge will not work.
Button
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943 |
BTW: I have no luck dropping the rad out the bottom. I remove the grill, loosen the rod that goes between the inner fenders, twist rad and pull out the front. Just need a little wiggle room between the innerfenders and wings.
Remember to ground the rad or else Your temp gauge will not work. OOPS! Just read Arwyin's post. I also remove the cowl. I use allen head 10-24 bolts. It is easier to get a allen wrench in this tight area. In fact I braze allen wrench into bolt and use a 1/4" air wrench with a long extension. I just must remove the cowl too othen for one reason or another and this makes it very easy.
Button
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943 |
BTW: I have no luck dropping the rad out the bottom. I remove the grill, loosen the rod that goes between the inner fenders, twist rad and pull out the front. Just need a little wiggle room between the innerfenders and wings.
Remember to ground the rad or else Your temp gauge will not work. OOPS! Thanks Arwyn, I also take the cowl out.
Button
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 121
L - Learner Plates On
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OP
L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 121 |
what's the cost do I need to send you old one
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 121
L - Learner Plates On
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OP
L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 121 |
was planning on doing it this way
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415 |
Private message sent
Simon @ SiFab.co.uk
Simon @ Sifab.co.uk
Sifabtemporary@gmail.com
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,272 Likes: 7
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,272 Likes: 7 |
The radiator will come out from below, and IF you have never taken the cowl off this may be the fastest method, but don't underestimate just how much height you need to be able to drop the radiator down below the car. You also need a helper to catch it as you free its passage past the various obstructions (mainly the valences , the bottom "tray", the tie bar and the radiator mounting brackets)
If you have previously taken the cowl off and replaced the fasteners with quick release versions , it will probably be easier , and faster to take it out from above , and it can be done single handed this way.
Andy G 1999 +8 , Indigo Blue. Ex-John McKecknie/Mike Duncan 1955 +4 racer.
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,578 Likes: 105
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,578 Likes: 105 |
Well lubricated stainless steel fasteners (both on assembly and removal) and properly lined up fixing holes make the cowl removal and replacement a doddle.
When I rebuilt the 4/4 I spent quite a bit of time getting the cowl set up correctly so it could be easily removed and replaced before I painted the car.
Following on from Buttons suggestion. I used long 2BA stainless set screws with a hex head where space was limited so I could put a ring spanner on them, I used ordinary dome headed screws for the rest of the cowl
Arwyn
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943 |
Well lubricated stainless steel fasteners (both on assembly and removal) and properly lined up fixing holes make the cowl removal and replacement a doddle.
When I rebuilt the 4/4 I spent quite a bit of time getting the cowl set up correctly so it could be easily removed and replaced before I painted the car.
Following on from Buttons suggestion. I used long 2BA stainless set screws with a hex head where space was limited so I could put a ring spanner on them, I used ordinary dome headed screws for the rest of the cowl
Arwyn 2BA????????? I use 10-24 Allen Head screws and nylock nuts. I braze a Allen Wrench into the Allen Head. Use 1/4" air ratchet wrench and very long extension. BTW: Cut the allen wrench so it does not stick up too far. With 3 Morgans I am constantly in one cowl or the other. This makes it easy - err easier.
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