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Have had my battery on Ctek trickle charge and went to start it today and just got the clicking noise.

Put it on the recovery setting and two hours later it started although hesitantly. Went for a drive and a coffee taking jump leads and screwdriver as a precaution. I needed them as it would not start again after a 20 minute run.

My conclusion is that the banner battery is 'shagged' using a technical term. Thankfully a fellow motorist gave me a jump start.

New battery tomorrow then.

The other frustrating bit is the aluminum battery cover being held on by six self tappers. These have only just caught the plywood and it is all a bit bodgeristic.

Has anyone come up with a solution that means you can use fasteners without having to use a screw driver? Press studs would be a better idea?

Fishless suggestions much appreciated.








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My 97 +4 had a channel the metal plate slid into.
I agree what we both have now is a naff solution


JohnV6
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I did think about fabricating a channel which is a much better solution. Currently you need a Phillips screwdriver and six screws to undo before you can get a set of jump leads on! Mad idea especially as there is not much room to get to them.

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Originally Posted By Blackadder
I did think about fabricating a channel which is a much better solution. Currently you need a Phillips screwdriver and six screws to undo before you can get a set of jump leads on! Mad idea especially as there is not much room to get to them.


Hi, I have not double checked tonight but I am sure that my 2006 Plus 4 handbook tells you how to jump start without having to get to battery terminals. You connect under the bonnet (i think to large positive lead to starter motor and a chassis earth). Will double check tomorrow if I get a chance.- Off on holidays.

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That's interesting - would be great to know that. Thanks.

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Originally Posted By Blackadder
That's interesting - would be great to know that. Thanks.


Just in case I don't get to my car. Its a tight schedule for me to catch a plane see this TM thread

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/39010/Jump_starting_Starthilfe_a_Mor

Same subject albeit on a Roadster but exactly as I remember it. Have you checked your owners handbook?

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Check your engine to chassis return lead.

Especially if your battery is showing as healthy on the charger.

And when left on maintenance charge, if it's like my Roadster remove the dash module fuses it causes a constant high drain


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My Banner battery let me down a couple of days ago. I had not had the CTek charger on for a couple of weeks but with only the immobiliser on it should not have done that. The Banner gave only about 11 volts when I tested it so it is buggered. I tried to charge the battery with a custom starting battery kit that plugs into the cigar lighter in the glove pocket but suceeded only in blowing a fuse. It took me ages to find the fuse it as it is not, as you would expect, in the under dash fuse box just next to the cigar lighter, but in the subsiduary fuse box under the bonnet on the driver's side.


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Good point on the engine to chassis lead - battery is showing healthy on the charger but I have had this before when the battery just hadn't got enough uumph to turn the starter.

It only started playing up when I left the lights on for five hours on one occasion a couple of months ago - still started then but has been running down continually since. So I guess I must have damaged a cell.

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All my Morgans needed a battery conditioner on otherwise after approx 2 weeks they would have flat batteries, this was not a problem but I often wondered why as my tin tops can be left indefinitely and not drain the batteries.
I always used a conditioner whilst not in use, on the Aero I could flick a switch under the bonnet and isolate the battery which was easy except I had to reset the electric windows every time I did it.
Ian


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