Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Narrow Bodied Plus 4

Thanks for the answers everyone, it has certainly been useful.

To answer a few points, I did consider remapping a 4/4, just not too sure if that would be the car for me, I do like the torque from the 2 litre, I'm just not sure I would get that from a remap, may have to look into that a bit more. Some hp/torque figures would be handy for a remap if anyone has them? I know that the remap and exhaust upgrade from Williams Automotive gives up to 135 on a sigma, has anyone driven one and compared with a +4?

I think when the time comes it may have to be a +4 and accept that I may not get exactly what I want, drat!

Can't blame the NB+4 owners hanging onto them, they do seem the nicest to me, lucky chaps!

Thanks again for putting up with my questioning!

'Tis the world of Morgan, Rylan..!!

The choices are many but solutions are few. Colours, interiors, wheels, engines.. It just goes on I'm afraid.

It's a by-product of individuality: after all, you don't spend as long choosing a daily driver I'm sure.

Just keep looking & trying..

Hello RBW,

I just bought a 4/4 this summer and also took some length of time to contemplate an NB+4.
Given the higher weight, the advantage of having more HP (and lower MPG, of course)
did not really overweigh the price difference; observing the fact that the NB-option comes with a pretty steep price tag (plus the higher price for the +4).
This money I put into making the car unique design-wise.
For me the performance of the 4/4 in comparison to the +4 is just fine. It is my second
4/4 and I never really felt underpowered.
That is surely a very personal thing and it also depends on where you are coming from and what you are looking for.
I come from a 340HP 1M Coupé, which is a dream in itself, but the 4/4...
Wouldn't wanna miss it for a single sec...

Anyway! Happy hunting...
Greetings, Daniel

A high bhp car can be driven slowly but a low bhp car needs higher speed because of the poor acceleration. You have to keep it fast, otherwise it's hard to pass other cars.
I got my 4/4 some additional horses to slow down.

Hi,RBW

There is another option 4/4 with 6" wheels (wide body? low line?)

I chose this option as I like the look but the problem was it was under powered (no fun on the twisty bits like a 4/4 should be). I have had throttle bodies, manifold and exhaust upgrades fitted by Techniques. Bhp is now around 155 and things start to happen at around 2,000 revs.

It now feels like my old Kent 4/4 but has the looks of a current plus 4

The P4 NB is indeed a very good option but the 4/4 is not to be underestimated. In the real world of driving on a normal road the P4 has very little advantage.

I would say that if the choice is between a 4/4 and a P4 then it depends a lot on your intended use.

If it is a car you are going to use for a blast in the country on a sunny day the 4/4 is a superb choice and can be fettled to give you better performance with a re-map and sports manifold and cat. If you want more you can consider throttle bodies.

If you are more interested in long distance touring and packs for a month when you are going for a weekend then the P4 is a better choice and the tuning options above still apply (though I don't believe remaps or TBs can be done on a GDI engine at this point).

Then, of course one could always look for a Duratec engined P4 (preferably with the Mazda gearbox)and slip in the 210hp Omex Duratec VVC 2.5l

Regarding long distance touring including three journeys to Italy with luggage on board our 4/4 never felt to weak regarding engine power, after adding a sport manifold. But she was to nervous in standard modification concerning a smooth and effortless straight cruising behave.
What helped a lot to make her more "adult" and matured without losing any of the fun: different tyres, brake reaction bars, stiffer front springs and adjustable AVO Dampers. All this mods were not too expensive.

To my mind, if you only do one modification, add the brake reaction bars. Cheap as chips and improved the handling no end.

Surely unless you tend to brake heavily a lot, the brake reaction bars are not really necessary. I'd go for decent adjustable shocks myself.

Interesting that at least one of the SLRs doesn't have brake reaction bars.

It's not so much the braking John but it tightens up the front end and makes steering more precise.