Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Steering wheel change

Please bear in mind here that I am a real muppet when it comes to this sort of thing but just how difficult is it to change a steering wheel on a four four? Mine currently has the standard factory steering wheel and I fancy one of the motolita jobbies.

Year? model?

Hardest bit is usually getting the steering wheel boss off the steering column. (if necessary) You might need to beg or borrow a suitable puller.

Arwyn

Bought new in April 2015 and it's a 4/4

Shouldn't be too difficult (he says..) although I have no idea how the plastic padding on the standard wheel comes off the frame.

The main part of the wheel should just be a single nut on the steering column. There is a central horn push, which is held in by two small screws. Undo these before the big nut, but take the fuse out to avoid shorts.

Undo the nut a couple of turns and hit the underside of the wheel upwards with both hands. Take the nut off before doing this & you'll be in A&E with a nose job..!!

Make sure the wheels are straight before starting, too.

Have a play, it's not too difficult..

I think if you're replacing with a Moto-Lita or similar, I think you'll be needing a boss kit from them too?

Any use?

The padded portion literally just puts off. Grasp at each end of the horizontal spokes of the padded portion and pull gently. You will need a suitable socket spanner for the retaining nut for the existing wheel (which is reused) and you will have to undo the horn connection cable, which is refitted to the new horn button.
Changing a steering wheel on a Morgan of your vintage is one of the simpler jobs.

Thanks everybody. This seems like a job I might just try myself.

Wrong....
The padded section is held on by 3 Phillips/Posidrive machine screws from the back face of the wheel. One through each of the spokes...

Generally you don't need a puller to get the wheel off.

Set the steering dead ahead

Remove the padded section by undoing the 3 screws.

Then prise out the horn button.

Detach the wiring from the horn button.

Then loosen the centre nut holding the wheel to the steering column. Don't undo it all the way off unless you want the wheel to smack you on the nose in the next step....

With the nut loosened, sharply strike the wheel rim back towards you with the palms of your hands (10 o'clock and 4 o'clock positions work well and avoid the wipers and indicators stalks)

A couple of decent wallops should shock the steering boss off of the taper on the steering column.

Remove the nut now and swap the wheels and bosses over, checking that the indicator cancelling lug lines up and also maintaining the dead ahead position.
Refit and tighten the nut and fit the new horn push.

Check the horn works and that the indicators cancel. Then take a cautious test drive to check for steering wheel alignment.

It should be noted that the ARP4 has an aluminium steering boss, and great care should be taken not to damage the mounting splines when removing and refitting the steering boss.

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk

On my 2011plus4, the padded portion is held on by 2x 3mm bolts and 1 cross head screw. Access from the back of the steering wheel.
you will need a 19mm socket for the retaining nut.

Mark a line on the shaft in the straight ahead position so that the steering is correctly aligned with the new boss.

Definitely a job for a competent diy'er.

Sorry. I confused the method with that of an old Porsche 924 I had concurrently. The Morgan pad is indeed fastened through each of the wheel spokes.

The comment on marking a line is critical. I usually use tipex.

The nut will need a box spanner & that is not that easy to find.
I took my car to the local hardware shop & it took a few goes to find the right one.

But it is easy to do.