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#443904 19/04/17 01:40 PM
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I went for a ride after a long period of garage time and within minutes I heard a clicking noise which turned out to be the exhaust guard hitting the body. I pulled over and twisted the exhaust outward and tightened the exhaust clamp as much as I could, but within minutes the exhaust was turning again. Any suggestions?

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Can you post a picture or diagram?
I cant picture what you are describing


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2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special
1952 Ford 8N
1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro




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Most likely cause is that the exhaust clamps weren't tight enough or that copper grease had been used on the joints to make them go together more easily and stop them siezing up; best just assembled dry, exhaust sealant can make them damn difficult to take apart.
Another possible is that the nuts on the studs at the exhaust ports have slackened off (or even a stud has sheared) allowing the header to turn pushing the tailpipe out of position.
Could also be a splitting mounting bobbin under the silencer.
Shouldn't be a big problem to sort it out.

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Going with RedThree on this one. One of the easiest solutions is to tighten the exhaust nut on the bottom side after loosening the upside a bit. This will swing in the curved manifold closer to the body and will increase the amount of space at the rear of the guard. Then tighten everything back down.

During driving season I go over everything I can reach and tighten. This car wants to vibrate itself to pieces...


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Thanks Calum, I think it may be that some grease was used to put them together. I will clean it all up and reassemble. Thanks for your feedback.

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I had this after fitting my Stage 1 kit and it was because there was not enough overlap where the the two tubes are clamped, I tightened the clamp but after a few hundred miles loosened again. I ended up slotting the holes for the rubber mounts which enabled the exhaust to be moved forwards 1/4 inch, not had the problem since.


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M
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i had to replace my clamps as they provided insufficient tightening on the join.

New mikalor ones worked fine.

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mine just leaked at the joint and blew a sort of chalky residue all over the pipes and the side of the body. not sure how anything could turn, though.


kirkusblog.com
2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special
1952 Ford 8N
1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro




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I used the Gold RTV sealant, I thing that should keep things well sealed.


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2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special
1952 Ford 8N
1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro




Mark H #444883 24/04/17 09:20 PM
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What size for the mikalor clamps?

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