Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Giles' 4/4 80th Anniversary

So the handbook says rear first when erecting and rear first when removing?

Does this mean I was doing it wrong for all those years? I guess it demonstrates that it's not actually that crucial so long as one avoids stressing the windscreen frame unduly. I'd be much more concerned about cracking the windscreen than I would about straining the rear eyelets.

When I bought RTA I was told to do the rears first, then on to the windscreen studs. However, after I'd re-proofed the hood there was NO WAY that hood would stretch over the windscreen studs.
So I had to do things front to back. If the hood hadn't been used for a few months (common) I used to fit front and rear then force the hoodsticks up under the hood. Took time, but it was the ONLY way to get that canvas hood on.
As it had a "bench" seat (i.e. single backrest across the car) it wasn't possible to fit the hood swivels as available from the likes of HoE / John Taylor. However, I later saw some made by Frank Orton for the 4-seater he restored, which did not protrude into the car and they could have been fitted to my old 4/4.

Stuart, it's important to release the Tennax fasteners before releasing the rear hood catches so as to put no additional strain on the fasteners. But you know that There won't be much strain if not so done, however owners forget they haven't released the fasteners and proceed to release the front and open the hood. That's when the fastener bases break...

Graham, Which ones are the Tennax fasteners, please!?

Are these the press studs or the push-through ones?

rgds Stuart

Mushroom heads. Usually stamped Tenax.

Thank you, Graham, Dave W, et al.

So my method for 'hood up' should be rear first, but not the corner tennax studs, then windscreen, then tennax's at the rear corner.

For hood removal, release the Tannax's at the rear corner and then the rear end, and finally the windscreen.

Have I got that right? It seems to work OK that way, but I still seem to be stressing the hood/windscreen when I erect the hood with the rear fasteners in place

Phil Benfield posted a useful video for those with modern easy up hoods:


Here

If you have a standard (non-easyup) hood I doubt you have Tennax fasteners.
On the easy up they are just behind the door aperture.

Stuart,

when easy hood up, work from front to rear, easy hood down, go from rear to front. Give the tension to the rear when going up after fixing the front (wind screen) and release the tension first in the rear when the hood comes down and then afterwards gently release the front. It's a very simple and (in my case proved) logical thing to protect your front screen as good as possible. Even if others recommend it in a different way I would not alter my ritual. Ah, the tenex has nothing to do with the tension of the hood but it is strongly recommended to remove it first when down and to fix it at last when going up to avoid it's self destruction.

Re -Throttle position. Cain at Wolf Performance has a set of "adjustable "pedals under development for those Morganeers with short legs. He tells me his wife has the same problem with the position of the Morgan pedals, as do I and my daughter. So keep an eye out for news on his website.

SteveH, are you saying I've got short legs?!!
Thanks, I will keep a look out.

Updates:
Last week I had the paint protection film added by the guys that do it for Morgan, Covertech Midlands, excellent job, skilfully fitted with great attention to detail.

Today I had my (sacrilege warning!) audio fitted today in Redditch by ALM on Hewell Road. Great service and just charged me an hours labour (it took 1hr 10 mins).
I'm really pleased with the remote head unit and speakers, it sounds good for a pair of 4 inch speakers and is perfectly audible at speed.

Really loving the 4/4 I have a massive 160 miles on the clock now!

Cheers, Giles