Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Pete's COMET

My 2 cents - V Twin = runs hot, especially if air cooled. Also, with very large bore motors, I suspect high bearing loadings. I assume full syn oils excel in these areas.

and now something completely different:

I ll have my pedals move one step towards me today!

Seems a fair comment given that most motorcycle V twins are mounted with transverse crankshaft, hence rear cylinder masked if narrow angle.

Ironically M3W isn't of course. Neither Moto Guzzi V twins. Having spent 20 years working with the latter, there was never any suggestion they required a dedicated oil, although I admit the range available has increased and improved in recent times.

My dealer uses Morris V Twin 20W-50 so I do also. Version 2 & 4 of the owners handbook just say "20w-50 V twin mineral oil (Synthetic oil recommended for unusually hot conditions)". That possibly applies to Arizona but not Aberdeenshire.

Tim

Just an observation on my part, but I believe that V-Twin oil is simple way to make sure that the oil you're buying is for an air cooled motor. Even the Twin-Cool Harleys with wet head still rely mainly on ambient air to cool the motors.

And I too believe that oil does not know what motor it's in, but air cooled oil do have different additives than oil for a total water cooled motor.

As I said before, our oil can easily reach 250+ degrees and most dino oil at that temp does not hold up well. Most water cooled oil temps run in the 180 to 200 degree range.

Unlike Harley motors that run a type of needle bearing on the rod crank pin, S&S uses a side by side 2-pc rod with plain bearings like an auto motor does. I believe the S&S still use a Timken double taper bearing on the output side of the crank for added strength. The plain bearings are not as forgiving as a more open cage style needle bearing and keeping the best oil in the system would be my priority.

I think that we're over thinking this. IMO V-Twin oil just means air cooled and I also believe that the oil companies use the V-Twin designation to sell more oil. I would also use full synthetic when possible in any modern motor.

Because S&S says so

I don't mean to be redundant, if you want it to run cooler simply put a set of Magnaflow's (see my post) or a Stage 1 and let that big Twin V breath and run cooler. I'm also a big believer in adding Liqui Moly to my hot rods once they have been broken in correctly! Both will really help the engine run cooler and last longer.

High Noon Speed Shop

going to move the pedal box

view from below, with positions closed by rubber plugs.



all 4 nuts, washers and rubber plugs removed ...



same from below:

you need good lighting too see the holes in the tunnel!



here's the loose pedal box:
and now is the time you realize removing the steering wheel
would help. I just crawled into the tunnel, head first.



reposition the pedal box, then put all washers and nuts into place. use "lock-tight" or similar.

the rubber plugs are of awfull quality - as if they are designed to be put in place once, and not for repositioning.
nevertheless, some rubber glue helps!

Done.



Oh yes, the motor oil as also arrived.