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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Regular
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OP
Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2 |
I have done a search for this and not come up with anything sensible. I am sure there was a recommended or maybe even obligatory modification for the fixing bolts for the camshaft timing wheels. My 2012 M3W is currently at RD Racing near the Paul Ricard circuit in France, for a large amount of work, chassis reinforcement, change to lightweight steel rear sprocket, change to high temp oil lines plus a major service etc etc. The engine is out anyway for a new style Centa Compensator to be fitted, so the camshaft timing wheel work could be done at the same time. I should be very grateful if someone could bring me up to speed on this, so I can advise the dealer.
We have been without a service dealer in the area for two years now, so there was a lot of work stored up for the new people to do and I would like to get it all done at one go. This will be the first M3W he will have dealt with officially, as the Morgan service dealer, apart from a friend of his, whose M3W he has known for some time. However they seem extremely competent.
It is a nightmare to get back to my house from Paul Ricard Circuit/Signes, as there is zero public transport. It was three taxis and two trains to go a total distance of less than 70km as the crow flies but not as taxis and trains go, taking over three hours. I don't know what they will do when the French GP is there next year as the roads are poor and public transport worse.
Wilson
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 429
Learner Plates Off!
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Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 429 |
Wilson The part number for the official S&S timing pulley repair kit is 370-0015 (June 2016). It includes the all important bolt and crankshaft pulley (cog) (which can alternatively be purchased separately). The kit includes a new belt too. The instructions recommend the fitting of the cover spacer kit 500-0257. Hope this helps.
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 104
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 104 |
They'll potentially need exactly the right Torx bit and a very thin footed puller too. It's one of those jobs that is easy with the right tools, but a bit painful without them.
I'll get some part numbers later, if you want them.
2012 G56 Stage 2 M3W 2007 Fiat Panda 100HP 1998 Lotus Elise (Cosworth Duratec) 1988 RF88 Van Diemen
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,822 Likes: 155
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,822 Likes: 155 |
The kit is available from Matt's Machine Shop , do a search for Product 370-0015 Can't remember off hand what grade of Loctite that is used on the new style bolt but am pretty sure that it is in the instructions that comes with it. Usual disclaimer; just a customer, have got various bits from them in a pleasantly hassle free way.
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Regular
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OP
Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2 |
Many thanks all. Morgan is apparently just recommending removing the Torx bolts, putting a bit of Loctite 243 blue on them and re-torquing them to a "bit more than originally recommended". Probably a couple of good smacks with a 4lb club hammer just to finish this precision adjustment off!
Wilson
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Regular
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OP
Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2 |
Many thanks all. I have contacted Matts Machine Shop and asked if they will send direct to RD Racing, where the car is at present and likely to be for the next few weeks.
Wilson
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,562
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,562 |
Just passing on as a satisfied customers , Matt's will order any S&S part and post on. I have had a number of parts this way , latest an S&S rain sock.
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Regular
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OP
Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 580 Likes: 2 |
Just passing on as a satisfied customers , Matt's will order any S&S part and post on. I have had a number of parts this way , latest an S&S rain sock. I'm a wimp. If it rains, I take the 911 :-) When it rains in Provence, it really RAINS, thunder and lightning and all. Wilson
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 104
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 104 |
I've put some photos up of the tooling that I used, that I thought either necessary, or makes life a little easier. Obviously your own discretion is required, and this is for reference only. Tensioner socket (S&S, a modified 11/16 socket): http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zpsmj1tb5yz.jpgCam sprocket locking dowels (S&S 3/16 x 3" dowels, set of 3, could use drills) http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zpsbcudkxnm.jpgPuller (Amazon) The instructions suggest the use of pry bars/screw drivers. However, getting behind the pulley is difficult, the standard pulley was on very tight and you need to lever onto the face of the casting. I didn't like how this felt, and the puller 'just worked' really well. http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps1py3wvxu.jpghttp://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps7sjspy2t.jpg3/8 UNF x 3" Bolt with washers (Sourced locally) Screwed into end of crank for puller to press against. Pulley pulls off around washers. http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps8wqeu3or.jpgTorx Plus set (TP45 required). A standard (non 'Plus') socket has much thinner fingers on the star, and is a sloppy fit in comparison. Undoing the bolt is the kind of thing you only really get one shot at, so leaning hard on the right tool is much better in my opinion. http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps4z1uhpix.jpgImperial sockets Imperial allen keys / bit set Torque wrench
2012 G56 Stage 2 M3W 2007 Fiat Panda 100HP 1998 Lotus Elise (Cosworth Duratec) 1988 RF88 Van Diemen
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,016 Likes: 2
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,016 Likes: 2 |
I've put some photos up of the tooling that I used, that I thought either necessary, or makes life a little easier. Obviously your own discretion is required, and this is for reference only. Tensioner socket (S&S, a modified 11/16 socket): http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zpsmj1tb5yz.jpgCam sprocket locking dowels (S&S 3/16 x 3" dowels, set of 3, could use drills) http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zpsbcudkxnm.jpgPuller (Amazon) The instructions suggest the use of pry bars/screw drivers. However, getting behind the pulley is difficult, the standard pulley was on very tight and you need to lever onto the face of the casting. I didn't like how this felt, and the puller 'just worked' really well. http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps1py3wvxu.jpghttp://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps7sjspy2t.jpg3/8 UNF x 3" Bolt with washers (Sourced locally) Screwed into end of crank for puller to press against. Pulley pulls off around washers. http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps8wqeu3or.jpgTorx Plus set (TP45 required). A standard (non 'Plus') socket has much thinner fingers on the star, and is a sloppy fit in comparison. Undoing the bolt is the kind of thing you only really get one shot at, so leaning hard on the right tool is much better in my opinion. http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah11...zps4z1uhpix.jpgImperial sockets Imperial allen keys / bit set Torque wrench Now that's what I call an informative reply!
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