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#449894 19/05/17 03:15 PM
Joined: Oct 2016
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Talk Morgan Regular
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Boy did it rain last night, and driving home in the dark along flooded back roads was more like being at the helm of a boat in a storm...

But the really disappointing thing was that the heated screen didn't work (yet another thing that wasn't done by the dealer I bought it from). So I was constantly wiping the screen with a hanky. I'll try and fault find this weekend - so any tips? I shall of course check the fuses. But before I strip the dash and get out the probe, any common points of failure?
2012 Plus 4 by the way.

Thanks
Nick

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Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
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Mine packed up a couple of years ago. Electrics are fine. Obviously the screen has failed. Even more obvious now that "penicillin" is growing up from the dash between the glass layers.
Thread on hear somewhere discussing hitting it with a hammer to get a new one, well that is if you are into fraudulent practice.


4/4 Ivory 4.1:1 axle, Mercedes A200 AMG
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Nick

2 watch points, the 2 wires from the screen are very flimsily attached to the heater element in the glass and may have open circuited and also as the MMC in a feat of staggering incompetence simply trap the wires between the dash and the wood frame they may be so crushed that the wire(s) are broken. The 2 wires from the screen are connected to the harness behind the dash with bullet connectors.


BR Colin
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The heated screen on my my 2011 +4 failed after about a year. Removing the dash, I found that the bullet connectors had never seen a soldering iron and one of the wires had simply dropped out. They were on the steering wheel side of the dash.


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
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Aha. Interesting. There is power up to the wires that go up to the actual screen through the wood above the dash. However, I cant see an easy way of getting the leather covered roll off the dash top. Or perhapsmitnis easier to unbolt the screen? I'm a bit scared to do that? Any thoughts.

Indicidentally I'm getting 22v across the supply... I take it there is some sort of voltage doubler to reduce the amps.

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To get the leather crash pad requires screen removal, well on my 1986 4/4 it does. Peeling the leather away from screen side reveals several pop rivets and a plastic rivet on each side. My screen only required 3 screws from either side to remove. Remember where the screws go as some are longer than others and can crack the screen on replacement

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Taking the screen off is straightforward. As said....just keep a note of which screws go where! Lay some protection on the bonnet and lower the detached screen on to it. Take care you don't put too much tension on the wires. You don't need to take the leather dash padding off.....the plastic rivets can distort the alloy scuttle if you are not careful. Just lever up the front centre of the padding and you can easily access where the wires come through the scuttle.


Jays
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I've had a look at the location on mine this afternoon. The wires appear to be either side of the centre wiper spindle. Blue on the left and black on the right.


DaveW
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Can I just check... we are talking here of removing the screen from the pillars, not the pillars from the body? I ask becasue I can see mastic between the pillars and the screen so I am assuing that will make the job harder.
I have just found out it is covered by the used car warranty I got when I bought the car so I'm thimking a trip to good old Krazy Horse is on the cards

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Salty Sea Dog
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If it's under warranty, let the dealer sort it!


Graham (G4FUJ)

Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
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