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Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 450
Learner Plates Off!
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Originally Posted By GLLOQ
I live in paris and I am often confronted with slow road traffic in the Paris region and often runs with regime engine 2000trm see less, I happily buy a set of rubber advance as a precaution, I plan to change the fixing between The torque damper housing and the engine to make the rubber replacement very quickly, four screws 5/16 unc key btr 1/4 make me lose more than one day of work by removing the steering rack to raise only the Motor and take it out alone without the torque damper housing.


I would be very interested to see how you intend to do this GLLOQ. It is not obvious to me. Thanks, Phil.


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Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted By WarBird
Richard, I've just received a phone call from Krazy Horse telling me of the compensator failure yesterday. It was the polyurethane barrels that failed. I'm impressed with Krazy Horse customer service
They've cancelled my order as they're going to investigate the failure
I've now ordered a set of rubber barrels and live in hope that they will last longer than the current ones.....


Thanks for update Austin. Good luck with replacements.

Trying to get a handle on this issue. Seems that torque spikes and low revs, plus heavy use don't help. Wonder therefore if the more open exhaust systems employed in stage 1+ kits actually reduce the torque spikes (despite greater overall torque) below say 3000rpm, borne out by greater engine flexibility.

If so a car with stage tuning driven in same rev range could actually be kinder to Centa drive.


Richard

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I would say there is some validity in this. Our car, with Stage 2 kit and calibration, is the smoothest it's ever been (most notably so at low engine speed, part throttle).


2012 G56 Stage 2 M3W
2007 Fiat Panda 100HP
1998 Lotus Elise (Cosworth Duratec)
1988 RF88 Van Diemen

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The problem is access to the four 1/4 key hollow screw, so I would like to change the fixing of the four Allen screws by replacing them with another fixing system.
Excused me if the drawing is rude.







There are nuts with hexagon socket reduced by 8.125 mm with a 10 mm wrench, as well as ratchet wrenches




I would look at the possibilities at the next disassembly I do not have time to design and manufacture a new steel welding casing.

The easiest for me would be to make four opening on the torque damper housing for arrived at passing the key.

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Salty Sea Dog
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Austin, I'll make sure the marshals have brooms at the ready to sweep up rubber bits... grin2
Seriously, look forward to a catch up on Sunday and hope all goes well.


Graham (G4FUJ)

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Graham, I'm hoping to have a chat with your marshal who works at the Morgan factory.....

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Salty Sea Dog
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Salty Sea Dog
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Chief Fire marshal at a guess. Owns a 3W as well as another 4W. I will try to point him in your direction if he's not too busy smile


Graham (G4FUJ)

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I think I may ask my dealer to do the grease nipple upgrade is it easy to do and maybe the best option for me looking forwards. What grease do you use and I guess you have to get clear access to the bottom of the car? Thanks Paul

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Sorry that was a question for dab of oppo

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Hi Paul

The grease nipple was fitted at the factory whilst replacing my original compensator which lunched itself in 900 miles.

There is a hole of about 25-30mm diameter in the bottom of the bell housing that the grease nipple can be accessed through.

Fortunately the engine nearly always stops in the same position so the nipple is at the bottomed accessible.

I use a cartridge type grease gun with a 300mm flexi hose on.

If I lay on the ground at the side of the car I can reach underneath and easily attach the grease gun hose through the hole in the bell housing.

The grease I use if from my local JCB dealers and is their high pressure blue grease, about £4 per tube part number 4003/2017.

1 tube lasts me 2 years.

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