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In looking over my new M3W, I find the belt is running hard to the far left on the pulleys. Is this "normal"? I don't see that the wheel is cocked in the swing arm, but it hard to tell. Is this anything to be concerned with, or does the belt tend to wander back and forth across the pulleys? Not having any experience with belt drives, I'm not sure if the objective should be to get it tracking in the middle of the pulleys. Front pulley:  Rear: 
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Mine looks exactly tne same
kirkusblog.com 2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special 1952 Ford 8N 1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro
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Mine tracks to the left as well, I just monitor the wear on the flange. Started squeaking like crazy on my trip to Georgia, so I doused it good with belt dressing, which reduced the squeaking 90%. I still have an aluminum rear pulley on the car, the steel pulley is still sitting on the kitchen counter. Regarding alignment, you can get the rear tire up in the air, try adjusting the alignment nuts slightly, and spin the wheel by hand and see what happens. When I change out the pulley, I will attempt to pull a string line across the face of the pulleys for an initial setting.
Inge
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Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
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Having the belt snug against the bevel box pulley is OK. That pulley is hardened steel and the only noise you get out of that one is from the 90 degree gears on the inside, hence the gearbox whine.
My first (2012) rear pulley had the bolt on flange added to it. Everything was made of aluminum so if it was not set up just right it would squeal. I wore out three before I bought the Super Max rebuild. It has no outside flange and makes no noise. In that case I set up the belt so it just barely hits the wheel side flange and for the most part just floats as it does have a tendency to move about during acceleration and deceleration. The front pulley doesn't seem to care one way or another.
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Talk Morgan Expert
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My cars set up looks like that as well. If it isn't well to the left side the belt will hit the tyre sidewall.
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The trouble stems from the drive being reversed on overrun. The belt will track to the other side each time you take your foot on or off the pedal. I think the aluminium pulley, as it wears out makes this worse. I used to take the thing out for a test drive each time I adjusted the back wheel spindle till it was about even but eventually I gave up as life is too short. The steel pulley or a super max overlay will make it much better I am sure.
2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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OK - thanks all! That's what I was looking to confirm. I expected it to move around a bit, just wasn't too sure what "normal" was, so to speak...
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I find it odd that there's no fine adjustment to the bevel box to help the belt track better.
I've had to adjust mine several times now to avoid loud squealing on throttle lift.
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I don't think it moves about much if at all. The polished area on both sprockets seems to show it working in the same spot all the time. If it moved to the right more than a few mm it would hit the tyre sidewall, which it doesn't, if set up correctly. If you align the rear wheel along the length of the car with a laser level it doesn't seem to be a problem.
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I find it odd that there's no fine adjustment to the bevel box to help the belt track better.
I've had to adjust mine several times now to avoid loud squealing on throttle lift. One of the problems is the NVH kit which is flexible by nature and allows the bevel box to move when belt tension changes and when the tension moves from top to bottom run when using engine braking. It would be impossible to achieve fine adjustment.
2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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