Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Why Morgan is a VERY special company....

My BMW heater switch didnot break...The whole heater went up in smoke.

OK children here's where I'm at.

A new switch is coming. I wish I knew what one it actually is as they're only two quid on Ebay. However there is a myriad of types and without the part number you're in the khazi.

I'm a bit peeved that the switch is soldered to wires to the module. A small connector would make the job a lot more simple.

I have some options.

Dismantle new switch very carefully and mate new front of switch to old rear connected to wires. I will take a pic of internals if I do this so in the future anyone handy can have an easier if fiddly job. Do note that morgan cut down the switch rod as it's too long as standard. Slightly concerned that the whole assembly might go flying but unlikely. There is a risk..

Getting the grub screw tightened in situ will be fun. They seem to come loose. Thus knob falls off.

Option 2 is soldering three wires to new switch and cutting wires to old and mating with a choc block connector.

Option 3 is removing dash/module and soldering switch as original to wires.

Option 4 is glueing control knob to dash and not having a fan heater!

I will advise how the job goes as the switch failing is quite common..

KR200.... have you tried a Google search for schematic drawings of the switch? Maybe even a search for dismantling/repair? Try youtube too.
I have found good info on these for repairs etc of several items( Dyson vac cleaner, etc).

I have looked everywhere for the a pic of the internal arrangement of the switch to no avail. Lots of info but no inside data.

There are hundreds of variations of this part.

I will report back soon with progress..

OK I'm having problems getting the switch from Morgan. Their part number is MDE1517. What gets on my goat is that it was fixed to the module with a connector and they've now decided to solder it. That makes replacement a right PITA.. 4/4 parts book here.

http://mog2904.free.fr/morgan-traditional-parts-book/morgan-traditional-parts-book-2006.pdf

I rang Lorlin and it would seem this is the part.

It's a Lorlin part CK1027.

They are £1.50 each. I've ordered two. I had to describe fully the switch to Lorlin's technical debt so they could supply the correct part.

I will advise how I get on when I try to install it..

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-swi...6&dym=ck102

To finish this episode I can confirm the switch is a CK1027. It can be found on RS component's site or Ebay. This is the RIGHT switch for a Morgan late dash I believe 2009 onwards and should be ordered.

As I had two switches to play with (at £1.53 each inc P&P from RS delivered grand total £3.06!!) and did not really want to cut and reconnect to the loom I decided to VERY carefully open the new switch and mate the front of new with all its gubbins to the rear part connected to the module.

If you keep the new switch horizontal and take your time when you open it, you are left with the disc bit with four metal sprung connectors which make contact internally. There is a spring and two detent balls which provide the "click" action when you turn the switch but you don't want to go there! One never wants ones balls falling out! They are tiny and will be gone forever along with the spring. I did this in error and it's another fiddly stage to overcome. So simply leave the front part of the switch in one piece and crawl under your dash and VERY carefully (making sure the metal bits don't pop off) and connect it up to the back part.

I did that and it clicked home and nicely. Ignition off the switch worked fine from off to the two speeds. So then I bit the bullet and turned the ignition on. With the switch hanging down I held my breath and bingo it worked!

Much deep joy!!! But I was not finished yet! With a very sharp pair of wire cutters you have to cut down the new switch rod to match the old one's length. You will see your old one has been snipped down so simply copy that and shorten it.

Finally you have to get the switch back into the hole on the facia. Make sure the small washer with a tang does not fall off as this tang limits the switch to two positions from off.

There is small round lug on the switch which locates it. You have to get it positioned so that the flat of the switch pole is facing directly down. Then another grim tricky bit. You have to get the thin flat brass nut that holds the switch to the dash started on its plastic fine thread. This is done through the hole on the dash with a very small screwdriver to sort of turn the nut so it catches the thread. If you get it on wonky it will cross thread and then you are utterly finished (I did and had to start again with switch 2!). Once the nut has started you then need to use some small long nosed pliers to tighten the nut.

The final job is fitting the alloy knob. It is held on with a grub screw and the only way to access it is from behind the dash looking up on your back. The reason you need to makes sure the flat of the pole is facing down is because the grub screw can only be accessed from dead south below the dash and it obviously needs to locate on the flat. The access is pretty good for the grub screw with an allen key if a bit fiddly.

Once all is back together simply refit the dash closing panel and fit the 10 odd tiny phillips screws.

Make no mistake this is a VERY fiddly job. However a complete module is hideously expensive and the labour will be too for fitting it. A dealer will not be bothered in doing what I have done and will charge you accordingly. I have no idea what a module costs but I can't see it being less than £500. Plus labour. Plus the scratches on your leather passenger seat when the mechanic is all over the car with his big boots flaying around tying to access the dash but is not as careful as me!

I will happily help anyone one out in the south east who has this problem if needed for pizza and a couple of ales!

Cheers

Well done, a very worthwhile job saving lots of cash!

Great work.....but wouldn't it have been less fiddly taking the dash out? It's a straightforward job.

It may have been but I did not want to disturb the entire facia/dash and associated fittings and connections. The quality whilst pretty good is not exemplary.

It's very easy to tear something down and then find when it all goes back something is not working. I concede unlikely, but for the sake of a bit more time and focus I decided it was was more sensible to do it my way.

Also my dash is painted. I can do without the possibility of the paint around the screws cracking when I retightened the dash.

Basically no good can come from taking things apart if there is a less invasive option...