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by Rex_tulips - 30/07/25 07:59 PM
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Forums34
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Most Online1,046 Aug 24th, 2023
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,871 Likes: 168
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,871 Likes: 168 |
The new battery arrived this morning. Very well packed, but with a tiny amount of dampness down one side. You never know if the box has been upended en-route. Anyway its all fitted and OK now, so here's the story: First the old battery. You will note the two lines of dirt where the clamp fitted. The J rods are welded to the carrier, and so don't fall away when the wingnuts are removed. My charger lead emerges to the right. Along the bottom edge I fitted a neoprene splash guard some time ago.  This shows the underside view. I decided to make an aluminium plate to cover the bottom of the new battery.  This is the underside of the new plate with a neoprene buffer added. The curved section provides a deflector plate underneath.  And this is the topside, with a neoprene pad. Underside with the plate added. The master fuse is just visible, upper left.  And topside. I kept the DB Power unit attached to keep the 12v power feed to the alarm and ECU.  This is a close up of the clamp. It needed a light refurb, and I added a neoprene strip underneath, plus a couple of stainless washers under the wingnuts. These batteries have four terminals, and two red fold up carrying handles. The innermost handle is visible, but I have removed the front handle as it just gets in the way, and has no purpose once fitted. I'll keep the handle on the shelf until I need it again. The handle just 'pops out' of the battery case moulding.  Getting the old battery out is tricky, and is better achieved from underneath, because it must be lifted over the wood panel threshold. And of course the cables get in the way. If you haven't been in here recently, the wingnuts do corrode to the threaded rods, so expect a fight. Mine were OK as I keep them treated with Coppaslip. Refitting the battery is much easier, as it pushes over the threshold, and you just need to make sure that it's level and properly seated. Then add some Vaseline to the posts, don't overtighten, and replace the clamp, again, without overtightening. That's pretty much it!
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 14,976 Likes: 1
Member of the Inner Circle
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Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 14,976 Likes: 1 |
Interest as ever Dave.
Is this the first item for Volume 2?
Is there drain hole in your plate?
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,653 Likes: 4
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,653 Likes: 4 |
Martin (Deano)
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,871 Likes: 168
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
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Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,871 Likes: 168 |
It will drain, if necessary, around the edges Richard. Volume 2? I don't think so.........
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,871 Likes: 168
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,871 Likes: 168 |
How To thread updated "Post Photobucket" using "Postimage". The new battery arrived this morning. Very well packed, but with a tiny amount of dampness down one side. You never know if the box has been upended en-route. Anyway its all fitted and OK now, so here's the story: Image 1: First the old battery. You will note the two lines of dirt where the clamp fitted. The J rods are welded to the carrier, and so don't fall away when the wingnuts are removed. My charger lead emerges to the right. Along the bottom edge I fitted a neoprene splash guard some time ago.  Image 2: This shows the underside view. I decided to make an aluminium plate to cover the bottom of the new battery.  Image 3: This is the underside of the new plate with a neoprene buffer added. The curved section provides a deflector plate underneath.  Image 4: And this is the topside, with a neoprene pad.  Image 5: Underside with the plate added. The master fuse is just visible, upper left.  Image 6: And topside. I kept the DB Power unit attached to keep the 12v power feed to the alarm and ECU.  Image 7: This is a close up of the clamp. It needed a light refurb, and I added a neoprene strip underneath, plus a couple of stainless washers under the wingnuts. These batteries have four terminals, and two red fold up carrying handles. The innermost handle is visible, but I have removed the front handle as it just gets in the way, and has no purpose once fitted. I'll keep the handle on the shelf until I need it again. The handle just 'pops out' of the battery case moulding.  Getting the old battery out is tricky, and is better achieved from underneath, because it must be lifted over the wood panel threshold. And of course the cables get in the way. If you haven't been in here recently, the wingnuts do corrode to the threaded rods, so expect a fight. Mine were OK as I keep them treated with Coppaslip. Refitting the battery is much easier, as it pushes over the threshold, and you just need to make sure that it's level and properly seated. Then add some Vaseline to the posts, don't overtighten, and replace the clamp, again, without overtightening. That's pretty much it! 
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,069 Likes: 21
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,069 Likes: 21 |
Nice, I'm off to the garage to start work on this...
A Morgan Identified Fastidious Owner... 2011 4/4 Bespoke, 1981 Delorean, Auburn Boat Tail
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,009
Member of the Inner Circle
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Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,009 |
Must say that on my car the battery came out quite easily from the access hatch without the need to get under the car. I did need to take the parcel shelf and tool tray out to assist it though.
Jays Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
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