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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 321
Learner Plates Off!
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OP
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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 321 |
Hello,
My 1959-built Plus 4 does not do well in heat/traffic, which will come as a big surprise to you all I know. I have fitted a heat shield, which seems to help some, and am considering adding an electric fan early next year.
I’d appreciate any advice, recommendations (I am U.S.-based), and alternatives you can offer. Thanks!
JCK 1960 Plus 4 Roadster
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,148 Likes: 18
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,148 Likes: 18 |
try sifab he makes alu rads for all mogs including our TR4 which has a new rad and a fan kit...guess you need the same?
TR4 engines run hot anyway!
Very interested in your heatshield and did you fit one to protect the alternator?
Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16 Triumph Herald 1969 13/60 Morris 1970
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,148 Likes: 18
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,148 Likes: 18 |
just had a look and its SimonH on here who does the radiators etc try doing a PM to him?
Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16 Triumph Herald 1969 13/60 Morris 1970
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,272 Likes: 7
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,272 Likes: 7 |
There are several reasons the TR engines runs hot , so sort those first.
1 A really good flush to clean out the deposits at the bottom of the wet liners in block, this may involve some back flushing.
2 If the ring gaps are set too tight , or the pistons too tight in the bores then friction is inevitable and heat will build
3 The advance retard needs very careful setting to cope with modern fuels
4 You can try running the fuel air mixture slightly rich rather than lean but this is fraught with other issues.
5 Are you sure yo don't have a slight head gasket leak into the water jacket, this will heat up the water way too quickly
6 Is the radiator fully cleaned out , again a back flush may be useful
7 Are you sure the hoses are not collapsing under heat, this can restrict flow
8 If all the above pass muster , then a larger radiator can help.
9 An electric fan driven by an other switch can help , but you have to make the decision whether you want a puller behind the radiator (not a lot of room) or a pusher in front (obscures part of the radiator)
Andy G 1999 +8 , Indigo Blue. Ex-John McKecknie/Mike Duncan 1955 +4 racer.
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 338 Likes: 7
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Try VictoriaBritish.com. They have all sorts of parts for British cars but do not have a Morgan line. Electric fans are about $50.00
'34 Family 4 '70 +8 '03 Hummer H2
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,484
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,484 |
I use Spal fans. Amazon.com Efficient and move a lot of air. You have to watch the amperage draw. Cheaper fans will pull more amps. A 10-12 inch pusher fan in front of the rad will most likely work for you.
Cheers,
Mark
1934 SS MX4 1938 Series 1 DHC 1951 Plus 4 2005 Roadster
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943 |
I use Spal fans. Amazon.com Efficient and move a lot of air. You have to watch the amperage draw. Cheaper fans will pull more amps. A 10-12 inch pusher fan in front of the rad will most likely work for you.
Cheers, I have used Pusher fans (SPAL) and Puller fans. If you can get enough room I feel a Puller Fan is superior. Getting the room is the trick. Several NorthWest Morgan Owners have found the space by extending the lower mount a bit. I was able to on My DHC. Installed a Universal Flex-I-Lite fan with shroud. So far it works OK. But has not been tested in 100+F. heat climbing a long hill at 70MPH.
Button
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Joined: Sep 2016
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My heat shield is a stainless steel sheet shaped to fit the TR3, obtained from British Parts Northwest in Dayton OR.  Thanks for all the suggestions and advice guy's. I have until April to figure out what I'm going to do, and it probably won't be a single solution. My car is happy cruising, even on the highway, but doesn't cope at all well with slow moving or stopped traffic, and less well when it is hot out. I keep it in a garage in Boston and encounter traffic whenever I collect or return it. It usually gets very warm very quickly in traffic and often boils or poops out (vapor lock). I'd like to improve this next year.
JCK 1960 Plus 4 Roadster
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 91
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 91 |
JCK,
Since you are U.S. based I will offer some suggestions. Temperatures in the U.S. in the summer are generally much higher than those in the U.K. or Europe aside from the odd day or so.
I have a 58 +4 which I bought in Hong Kong in 1972 so have quite a lot of experience running in very hot climates---I now live in Arizona where a 115 F day is not abnormal. This car is road registered, but has been a vintage racer for over 40 years. It is slightly overbored and runs a higher compression head, both contributing to higher operating temps.
Some suggestions, moving from the cheap and easy on up:
- Flush cooling system, opening all the taps on engine block and bottom of rad. Check condition of hoses. Run engine while flushing radiator. Check condition of radiator cap. Add a full bottle of water wetter after refilling.
- Old Morgans did not come with closed system overflow. Consider putting in a simple overflow tank. One with a drain at the bottom, over time you will get a lot of sediment to drain out.
- Cut a piece of heavy rubber sheet width of radiator and about 10-12" wide and affix this to the bottom crossover bar and back under the radiator using an alloy bar and bolt to the bottom of the two radiator mounts. This creates a block and forces air up thru the radiator.
- Call up the guys at Morgan Spares and order part # 500-838 cowl box scoop. This replaces the existing box and directs air up into the radiator. Powder coat it first if not already coated.
This ends the simple/cheap approach.
- Install an alloy radiator. Readily available from Morgan Spares as well.
- Take off the old belt driven fan and install an electric fan, puller if you have space or pusher if you do not. I have a Kenlowe pusher on the 58 and a puller on the 86 +4. Installed in 1976 and still going.
From 1972 to date I have never had overheating issue. I ran 5,000 + miles from Boston to Sacramento on the Great American Race--no issues.
Do one thing at a time so you can measure results.
Lots of other things you can do, such as a finned alloy sump but get progressively more expensive.
One thing I have found. My engine runs cooler and better with NGK BP7HS spark plugs. Runs much better than with Champions or even the NGK BP6HS plugs. No explanation for this---just trial and error.
Good luck.
TS
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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 321
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Thanks again everyone, especially Andy and Tom. I will definitely check out my hoses and water wetter. Morgan Spares fitted a new aluminum radiator and an overflow system to my car four or five years ago and I just flushed it out and replaced the antifreeze, but will try doing a more thorough job next year. The head gasket seems to be fine. I’m planning to add a cowl scoop and an electric fan behind the radiator, perhaps a Spal.
JCK 1960 Plus 4 Roadster
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