Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Help immediate assistance needed rear dampers

Has anybody replaced their rear dampers themselves, I have my car all apart and cannot figure out how to get the bottom securing bolts out of the rear dampers! You would think you would just let the swing arm hang down and they would slide out once you are blow the tank enough, but the drive belt binds up and the swingarm will not swing down that far then I tried putting a ramp under the rear tire to try to swing the swing arm enough to clear the tanks and I don't think that is going to work either. Somebody else has to have done this and there has to be something simple that I am missing?

I think this might be an issue with the cars that have the rubber mounted bevel box so haven't had the problem myself but would suggest loosening the wheel spindle and backing the belt tension adjusters off a couple of turns (or more) on each side.
Good luck!

Yes it is definitely the belt hanging up on the nvh crossbar that is stopping it dropping. That is a good idea slacking the belt might give me enough of a drop in order to get this out I guess I just have to make the decision do I want to get that much more involved in what was supposed to be a quick swap out!

Hi Draggin, I just remove the top mounting bolts and then the swing arm drops far enough to remove the bottom bolts.

If your drive belt is fouling on the NVH bracket then perhaps you will have to slacken the belt tension and slip it off the pulley.

What a faff.

the swing arm itself hits on the NVH cross bar!! had to remove all together to let swing arm low enough to clear bottom shock mounts! two big bolts into BB and 16mm nut and bolts each end of the NVH bar .straight forward but more time needed over non NVH car.... ps you may find the cross member rusty!! made of chrome steel. wire brushed and painted chassis black.

Slacking the belt which was a major pain in the ass has accomplished nothing what is happening is the swingarm bottoms out on that back bracket that holds the bevel box. Meaning there is no way to get this thing out without undoing all of the rear bevel box mountains and taking that crossbar out I guess now I have to decide that now that I'm this far into it do I keep on going or do I go back to trying to recreate my belt tension and move on

we just crossed . just the two big bolts don't strip out interior, can get from under the car. mine been in and out 3 times when messing with the ohlin's.... think they 17 or 19 mm heads on BB 16mm each end of bar watch out where the washer comes from at the bar ends keeps the bar centred!!!

Well a simple 9 hours later and I am all done I cleaned everything up I rewired my reversing lamps so they go on when I put the transmission into reverse, put the new dampers on which only can happen if you both slacken the drive belt and unbolt the NVH bracket in the back. The thing that took me the most time was the nut sert that is in the rear aluminum panel at the very back of the plastic tray in the boot area was stripped out so I had to replace it. Oh and I replaced the bevel box oil as long as i had a nice free shot at it.

That NVH bracket is worse than a boat anchor, at least an anchor has some use.

I think that might be very true indeed!
The comment about spinning threaded inserts sounds very familiar too; I've replaced or tightened most of them on my car, generally seems to be one or two each time I need to get into "somewhere else" so even small jobs seem to grow into multi-hour epics. I find that a decent selection of malt whisky helps soften the blow after each session in the garage.