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Joined: Jul 2009
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brianw Offline OP
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Thanks for the reply. We have the original badge die so are having the badges now made locally with the yellow in enamel. I don't know how many were originally made but found that some at least of the originals had the yellow in a glued on vinyl / plastic type material which over time, as several of our group has found , peels off .
I'm aware of the Ian Sedgwick car ( a four seater ?) which I believe you have restored .

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I don't know anything about these old engines but if the pipe attached to the manifold is open to drain, doesn't it affect the manifold vacuum or does it have a tap or one way valve? I'm curious.
there are no taps or valves.
But you tune it with the hole open and it is just another air supply ;although admittedly missing the air cleaner.

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brianw Offline OP
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Thanks
I'm aware of the Ian Sedgwick car - 4/4 series 1 - 4 seater which you have restored ?
As to the badge we have the original die so we have them made locally . For information several members who have badges from that era have found that the yellow is not enamel but a glued on vinyl plastic type material that has peeled off as the adhesive has failed over time. Our current badges have yellow enamel.

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Originally Posted By Dave Turner
Drain for a flooded intake manifold to stop fuel filling cylinders in the event of a stuck float


On my 1948 Triumph Roadster built with a number of parts used on Standards, the copper tube was exactly as above. There was a male stud in the aluminium inlet manifold below the Solex carb. The copper tube was connected by brass nut and tube went directly down below sump level. There may have been a tab attached to one of the sump nuts to steady it.

How do I remember all this? One cold and windy morning car would not start. In haste I applied vigorous arm movements to the starting handle, the excess fuel blew back on to the hot starter motor and flames ensued.
Fortunately it was all over in a 'flash'. Cause? loose connection to the manifold. Result? I was late to work and had to buy a recon starter, my, those were the days. read drive

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Brian

One of the best sources of information about the Series 1 in the world resides on your continent , John Merton is listed as the Series 1 contact in the Oz club magazines , and although I am pleased that you feel that TM can give you the answers you need, a call to him might have given you the data "locally".

Anyway here are his comments:

The pipe he's talking about is simply a drain pipe down from around the sharp bend in the inlet manifold just under the carburettor. The two centre exhaust manifold pipes have take-offs to this point creating a hotspot to help fuel vaporisation. Basically, while feeding cold air into the carb is better because it is denser, once it mixes with fuel in the carbie it both vaporises it(i.e. the fuel mixture) and there can also be some atomisation (i.e. small droplets of fuel, which can puddle on the floor of the inlet manifold where it takes its sharp turn inwards under the carburettor towards the cylinder head. The purpose of the hot spot is to help revapourise any such petrol puddles.

Trust this and Rob's pictures answer you query.


Andy G
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Originally Posted By Chris Cosher
I don't know anything about these old engines but if the pipe attached to the manifold is open to drain, doesn't it affect the manifold vacuum or does it have a tap or one way valve? I'm curious.
there are no taps or valves.
But you tune it with the hole open and it is just another air supply ;although admittedly missing the air cleaner.


Thanks Chris, I'll have to get my head round that. So with the throttle closed, sucking fresh air. Like I said, I don't know anything about these old engines.


Bob

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ours actually has a bolt blanking this hole off but un screwwing it from time to time allows any fluid to drip out.

try clicking this video of the engine first time start

VID_20150404_132750722 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970

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