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Originally Posted By NickCW
Originally Posted By cerealsurfer
Originally Posted By Simon
Originally Posted By Alistair
It would be cheaper to buy an S2 if you can find one for sale.


The only engine with more power was, as mentioned, the GTN, which had the 4.6is engine, tuned by Alpina. The S2 had the same engine as the S1

I'm always interested to read comments regarding the 4.4/4.8 V8 because no one is yet been able to get more power out of the engine without major modifications(and this included MMC). As for bolting on a supercharger or turbo, general consensus is that you'd struggle to find space to do it in an Aero and would end up with something sticking out of the bonnet like a hotrod!

It would seem that the variable value timing is the limiting factor and this is what stops you from making and noticeable gains in BHP.

As an aside, what I always found frustrating is the large performance difference http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/20075/1between standard engines. Aeroman, Asbo, Boshly, MrTony, myself and a few others all put our cars on the same rolling road, on the same day, and there was, iirc, a 30bhp spread between best and worst performing engines. It would seem that the easiest performance gain would be buying a very strong stock engine, rather than one with asthma! wink



Results here:
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/20075/1

The M/N 62 BMW engine is a bit pants. To get a more powerful Aero change the engine either S62 V8 or S85 V10 - I’ve been tracking the V10 engine conversion component prices and I now believe an economical conversion can be made. wink


CerealSurfer, who did your remap?
That is a pretty good result!

It was not done by me - the original owner Graham Bryant (Oliver Bryant’s Dad) had it done. I believe by West Tuning at Thruxton. The output is pretty much spot on for a S1 with intake air filter mod and Sports cat back exhaust.

If you want a more tractable S1 but din’t Want to tune the engine. Change the gearbox for one that’s not designed for a car twice the weight. Drenth or Quaife both do one for similar money.


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And get a quaife lsd fitted..... it helps stop the back end spinning up so easily.


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Thanks cerealsurfer, that sort of output is about what I was looking for. Good to know of a tuner who has previous experience.

Can I ask what sort of intake you have fitted as well or is it a panel filter type?

With regards to the gearbox that is a good idea actually, although I can't say I have ever felt it was over-geared - I guess it must be.
I thought it had an LSD..unless it was the GTNs?

Last edited by NickCW; 04/12/17 11:57 AM. Reason: Spelling!

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I must admit I also thought it had an LSD. Have I not been trying hard enough?


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Originally Posted By Alistair
I must admit I also thought it had an LSD. Have I not been trying hard enough?


My understanding is that the Aeros have a friction plate LSD, similar to the one used in the Roadster. The oil and friction modifier need changing every 30k mikes, or so.
Upgrading to a Quaife "gear type" LSD will give better control. I'm thinking about doing it.


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Originally Posted By NickCW
Thanks cerealsurfer, that sort of output is about what I was looking for. Good to know of a tuner who has previous experience.

Can I ask what sort of intake you have fitted as well or is it a panel filter type?

With regards to the gearbox that is a good idea actually, although I can't say I have ever felt it was over-geared - I guess it must be.
I thought it had an LSD..unless it was the GTNs?

The air filter mod replaces the entire plastic air box with a large ITG cone/barrel filter where the air box was. Whilst you have this off I would also recommend bracing/replacing the long length or rubber intake tube with aluminium as at high load the intake vacuum can collapse this.

You can easily see how the high torque to weight of the Aero is hindered by the manual gearbox (auto’s being programmed to overcome the mechanical shortcomings) by the superlative ease with with you can melt the rear tyres in both first and second - also by the rpm drop between gears. A closer stacked ratio set starting near where second is would help with traction to some extent and also drivability further up.

As for the type of lsd - the quaife unit has more reliable characteristics - especially when hot.


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NickCW Offline OP
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Originally Posted By cerealsurfer
Originally Posted By NickCW
Thanks cerealsurfer, that sort of output is about what I was looking for. Good to know of a tuner who has previous experience.

Can I ask what sort of intake you have fitted as well or is it a panel filter type?

With regards to the gearbox that is a good idea actually, although I can't say I have ever felt it was over-geared - I guess it must be.
I thought it had an LSD..unless it was the GTNs?

The air filter mod replaces the entire plastic air box with a large ITG cone/barrel filter where the air box was. Whilst you have this off I would also recommend bracing/replacing the long length or rubber intake tube with aluminium as at high load the intake vacuum can collapse this.

You can easily see how the high torque to weight of the Aero is hindered by the manual gearbox (auto’s being programmed to overcome the mechanical shortcomings) by the superlative ease with with you can melt the rear tyres in both first and second - also by the rpm drop between gears. A closer stacked ratio set starting near where second is would help with traction to some extent and also drivability further up.

As for the type of lsd - the quaife unit has more reliable characteristics - especially when hot.


Thanks cerealsurfer, I presume nobody sells a kit for the Aero so its a homemade job?

What are Aero's like for heatsoak? I have seen a lot of performance tuning companies themselves turning away from cone filters and going to modified boxes with a cone filter inside (or a panel filter) for this very reason. Albeit usually on more convential cars.

Interesting on the diff, I have never tried to launch in second gear, might be worth a try..

Last edited by NickCW; 05/12/17 12:39 PM.

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Originally Posted By NickCW
Originally Posted By cerealsurfer
Originally Posted By NickCW
Thanks cerealsurfer, that sort of output is about what I was looking for. Good to know of a tuner who has previous experience.

Can I ask what sort of intake you have fitted as well or is it a panel filter type?

With regards to the gearbox that is a good idea actually, although I can't say I have ever felt it was over-geared - I guess it must be.
I thought it had an LSD..unless it was the GTNs?

The air filter mod replaces the entire plastic air box with a large ITG cone/barrel filter where the air box was. Whilst you have this off I would also recommend bracing/replacing the long length or rubber intake tube with aluminium as at high load the intake vacuum can collapse this.

You can easily see how the high torque to weight of the Aero is hindered by the manual gearbox (auto’s being programmed to overcome the mechanical shortcomings) by the superlative ease with with you can melt the rear tyres in both first and second - also by the rpm drop between gears. A closer stacked ratio set starting near where second is would help with traction to some extent and also drivability further up.

As for the type of lsd - the quaife unit has more reliable characteristics - especially when hot.


Thanks cerealsurfer, I presume nobody sells a kit for the Aero so its a homemade job?

What are Aero's like for heatsoak? I have seen a lot of performance tuning companies themselves turning away from cone filters and going to modified boxes with a cone filter inside (or a panel filter) for this very reason. Albeit usually on more convential cars.

Interesting on the diff, I have never tried to launch in second gear, might be worth a try..

Re. intake mod - for most cars the the cone filter is in the engine bay so it’s not so handy. Though tbh - the Aero are intake is very convoluted and not ideal. The intake below the radiator is ducted over the N.S wheel arch terminating in a aluminium housing effectively formed by the inner wing just ahead of the bulkhead and the chassis. Within this a large plastic box sits which houses a panel filter. This box is connected to an approximately 3 in or so pipe which turns 90 Deg and then extends back to the upper front of the engine bay where upon it does a U turn and enters the inlet manifold air box. On the race cars this near 6ft of hose was removed and air ducted directly from the upper currently blanked off faux grill. Reducing 6ft to about 6in. Over the full length of the basic install there is plenty of heat soak - especially as the NS bank exhaust and cat is not that far away.


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THe heat soak is horrible. Inlet air temperatures are in the 90C range after a run.
The GT Cup cars ran a cone filter in the front of the front wing, behind one of the "brake duct" holes, it worked well until it rained and the car stopped running. The Mass airflow sensor is rather averse to water.....
There's not enough space to mimic the GT3 cars setup on the production plenum and radiator

With regards to the V10, it doesn't fit without substantial body modifications
Find a crashed X5 4.6 and swap the engine for easy power. The Cup car in 24hr trim was 380 bhp with nothing more than a proper ecu and map, the VANOs locked in "power" mode and and a dry sump

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk

Last edited by SimonH; 05/12/17 04:10 PM.

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Originally Posted By SimonH
THe heat soak is horrible. Inlet air temperatures are in the 90C range after a run.
The GT Cup cars ran a cone filter in the front of the front wing, behind one of the "brake duct" holes, it worked well until it rained and the car stopped running. The Mass airflow sensor is rather averse to water.....
There's not enough space to mimic the GT3 cars setup on the production plenum and radiator

With regards to the V10, it doesn't fit without substantial body modifications
Find a crashed X5 4.6 and swap the engine for easy power. The Cup car in 24hr trim was 380 bhp with nothing more than a proper ecu and map, the VANOs locked in "power" mode and and a dry sump

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk

Simon,
I've taken a look at an S85 v10 install in a S2 chassis with no chassis modifications. What the engineer had done was create a rear engine mount and bell housing effectively from a single slab of aluminium. Then tapped the engine block to attach this then bolt it directly to the bulkhead. This left plenty of space at the front for suspension and intake routing. It didn't look any further forward to a V8 unit. The gearbox to be used for this install was a Hewland HGT/IGT. The stock exhaust headers and the intake housing all fitted within the existing chassis.

Thoughts?


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