Thank you for your comments. The original coil does not have anything printed or embossed but it is an original Lucas coil. I did Google about the ballast resistor but I did not see anything similar to what I have. In fact as you said I did wiggle the part and the engine stopped. That's when I realized that fitting a new coil is not solving the problem. So I removed the new coil again and replaced it with the original. Then I fitted a short wire from the negative of the coil to the part to bypass the connection . The wire on the part seems to be push on. I have tried to give as much detail as possible maybe someone has the same in between connector as I would like to know what this is. Thanks to all once again.
Learn how a Points Ignition Works. Lots written about it and it is amazingly simple. BUT! learning a little bit about Electronics/Electrical for somebody with none of the background can be "witchcraft". The way I did it:
Coils produce lots of electrical Power to drive the Spark Plugs.
The - side goes to the distributor by a small wire.
The + side connects to the ignition switch.
In the distributor is a switch (points) that ground the coil.
That is all that is needed to make Your Ford engine run. BUT!
But it has been found out that the points will quit working at too much voltage.
So a Ballast Resistor must be installed between the ignition switch and the + side of the coil. In this mode it will be hard starting but will run OK. and for a long time.
So get on GOOGLE and see if You can find some suitable information. If You can't get back to Me or some other Morgan DIY.
The other item is wiring connections. For 30 years I just went to the Auto Parts store and bought connectors and the tools to use them. Now I buy un insulated connectors from a Marine or Aircraft Supplier and the proper tool, and use heat shrink to insulate and plastic ties to bundle. I do not like wiring harnesses because I can not see which wire goes where.
