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Joined: Oct 2010
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Horoko Offline OP
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Hello;

I have a 1985, 4/4, with a 5 speed gearbox (ford xr3 engine), and I want a K&N filter.
Can anyone tell me wich one I need?.
Best Regards from Madrid / Spain

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1985 FORD Fiesta II 1.6L L4 CARB - XR2,
Weber 32/34 DFTA Automotive Custom Assembly

Part No.: 56-9015

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-9015




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Thank´s a lot for your answer, and let me ask you a question: My 1985 Morgan 4/4 has a xr2 0r xr3 engine? or it´s the same?
Thanks a lot.

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The Morgan Engine is the post x-flow engine from the Fiesta XR2. It uses a custom flywheel to turn the engine through 90degrees and mate to a Type-9 5 speed sierra box.

The architecture of the 1600cc CVH stayed pretty much the same, with only ancilliary changes to support injection and fully electronic ignition control.

the Cylinder heads are interchangable from newer-older on the blocks. There were several variants of Cylinderhead. The original Pre 86 casting 81SM6090 regular and Cross Hatched homologation version with slightly better inlet port flow shape. There are also later carb heads which slightly altered the dish of the valve area to a kidney shape(lean burn) which has problems with valve shrouding against the cylinder wall as well as the moulded insert.

Injection cylinderheads also have injector recesses cut into the inlet port which mean they are not ideal for carb use.

Quoted from Puma Race engines:

The primary identification without taking the engine apart is to go by the casting number on the inlet port side of the cylinder head. The first two digits indicate the design year of the head.

81SM6090 - pre 1986 hemi head (1600 Escort, Fiesta XR2, Bosch K XR3i etc)
There are two variants of this head. The standard casting and the rare cross-hatch casting. The standard casting has a plain flat finish to the external sides of the head. It's a good head for standard or 43.5mm valves. The cross-hatch casting has a ribbed cross-hatch pattern on the external sides and has thicker port walls and a better port shape. Only the cross-hatch casting can be used for 45mm valves.
86SM6090 - Lean burn head on post 1986 carb engined models.
88SM6090 - Generally these are hemi heads on the few carb engines that didn't go to leanburn in 1986 (Some Escorts/Orions I think) but see below. Essentially similar to the 81SM head but fairly rare to find one. I suspect the only intended difference is they'll have seat inserts fitted designed specifically for unleaded fuel. However, they also tend to have very bad port shapes and can't be modified for good flow or you'll break into a waterway. Best avoided even for ported standard valve work and absolutely no good for big valves.
88SM6090 - Just to confuse things some of the 88SM heads are leanburn although I've only come across a couple in 15 years.
89SM6090 - The EFi hemi head from Bosch L Fiesta XR2i's and XR3i's. Also has the injector cutouts in the inlet ports and therefore won't take a DCOE manifold without welding or other tinkering. Good head for big valves though as the port walls are very thick and the port shapes are excellent for flow.

End Quote

The RS Turbo engine obviously has lower compression pistons and usefully a dowled crank for mounting the Flywheel.

From what I remember the XR3 was an injected engine, so the bottom-end, crank, pistons & rods are the same.. only the head will have been the Injected version... these were fitted on post 85 Morgan 4/4's

Full link to Puma Race engines CVH article here:
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/CVH.htm




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Horoko Offline OP
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You are the master!!!!!!

Thank´s a lot

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I have the CVH efi version and am considering a K&N filter. I have heard that the oil used acan affect the air temp sensor by contaminating it so am thinking of a no oli based filter. Any suggestions?
Aim is to improve airflow.
I read somewhere that a different manufacturer filter is reccomended for the efi but can't remember the make!


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Originally Posted By sospan
I have the CVH efi version and am considering a K&N filter. I have heard that the oil used acan affect the air temp sensor by contaminating it so am thinking of a no oli based filter. Any suggestions?
Aim is to improve airflow.
I read somewhere that a different manufacturer filter is reccomended for the efi but can't remember the make!


This is not in any way meant to criticise K&Ns becuase I know a lot of people use them very sucessfully, so much of what follows is just based on personal preference.

I use an ITG filter system but that's just becuase I think it does the job very well on my car and all the tests seem to suggest that their filtration/ flow performance is very good

I'm assuming from your post that what you are intending to do is fit a new filter element in the exisiting housing rather than fit an induction kit either closed or open

Car manufacturers like using paper filters because they are cheap to make but in terms of efficiency they leave a heck of a lot to be desired becuase not only are the flow characterisitics not of the best but they will eventually clog and deteriorate over time.

That leads to the 'better' options- namely, using lightly oiled cotton guaze for their filtration element or have a sponge or gauze element which is then impregnated with a dirt retentive oil spray.

There have been recorded problems with this oil affecting the MAF sensor but this can usually be traced to an over -liberal application of the oil spray or improper fitting. As a very general rule, don't overdo the spray and spray a light coating onto the intake side of the filter only.

The other thing you might have to consider when looking at which element to fit is the filter box on you car. ( I can't speak authoritatively here because I don't run a CVH- engined car) but you may well find that the actual box itself is not the corresponding Ford part ( On my Zetec it's off an MG Maestro EFi!)but a good dealer ought to be able to tell you the appropriate element

regards,
G


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Thanks GLLHG, on my cvh the filter is apparently from a Rover so would have to be replaced with freeflow variant.
I will confirm this from garage.
I am also considering heat shielding for intake air system - duct from inlet/filter box etc.
Hopefully this will reduce the effect of exhaust heat effects as the air intake is above the manifold with only a thin metal heatshield. I don't want to go the route of exhaust wrap or coated exhaust. I want to get heat shielding for the rear front wing area anyway as it can warm up due to exhaust being very close to it. A job lot to both areas is likely route
I have seen DaveW articles re heat shielding so will use them as a guide.


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I would agree with GLLHG... the only benefit of using the K&N for the carb model is that they are one of the only manufacturers to do it as a kit.. which includes the re-jets for the carb itself.

If you have EFI then go and get some 70mm flexible heat resistant trunking and possibly some reducers to mate it to the EFI intake.. and use a generic cone filter located in a cool, dense air zone.




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Originally Posted By cerealsurfer
and use a generic cone filter located in a cool, dense air zone.

Cereal, any views on using a closed induction kit ( eg Viper, ITG Maxigen, BMC or similar) provided that the air duct into the unit itself was properly sited- and I know it's the last bit that could be problematic!
regards,
G


GLLHG
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