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hbatts #524630 28/07/18 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted By hbatts
Three Things:
1 When its quiet and you turn on the key can you hear the fuel pump?
2 Did you check if there is 50plus psi at the injectors?
3 The clunk--how tight is the drive belt. If too loose it will skip and you will hear a "clunk"

Thanks.
At the initial breakdown, the pump was no longer active when turning the ignition. The next morning, it turned on with a low growl and the engine would only run a few seconds. So I believe the pump is on its last gasp. I don’t have a way to check the pressure at the injectors. Drive belt is fine.
Had it towed to the dealer yesterday...it is still under warranty. It is 2 years old and has 4000 miles, so we shall see...


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HalfFull #524657 28/07/18 06:43 PM
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Mine did that, too. It did not just stop but it was a slow death rattle. Fortunately, it is a easy fix. Biggest problem will be the dealer's supply. I ordered mine online and had it in two days so don't settle for a song and dance about how long it will take to get it.


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
HalfFull #526405 08/08/18 03:22 AM
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So it was the fuel pump.
I wonder how many of us have had this fail...we need a poll
Mine: 2 years, 4000 miles

Makes we wonder if I should preventatively replace it every couple of years.


Aka Joejoe
truckin-on #526442 08/08/18 09:29 AM
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This is interesting - any photos of the insulated fuel line mod?

Originally Posted By truckin-on
...When I was visiting with Will Freeman during his trip through NJ, he shared an interesting observation about his fuel pump failure(s) in California. Will said that whoever worked on his M3W (name escapes me) concluded after the 2nd failure that there was a high probability that the root cause of the pump failures was heat. Specifically, that the pump re-circulated the fuel back to the pump, but that the fuel was heated significantly due to the routing of the non-insulated fuel lines near the cylinders. The "hot" fuel then caused premature failure of the pump.

It's an interesting observation, admittedly third-hand, but worth investigating. A laser thermometer could easily check the fuel temperature after a long run - would be interesting to see if it does in fact heat-up significantly!

Given the high-volume of the Rover fuel pump, relative to the demands of the S&S, could also result in much more fuel re-circulation than expected.
...


M3W5sp 2015, MSCC, MTWC, Oxon UK
HalfFull #526824 09/08/18 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted By Joejoe
So it was the fuel pump.
I wonder how many of us have had this fail...we need a poll
Mine: 2 years, 4000 miles

Makes we wonder if I should preventatively replace it every couple of years.


If you replace it with the same specification pump you may well have to do that every couple of years. The solution is to fit a better quality pump. There are even pumps that are designed for high Ethanol content fuel if that is a concern.

planenut #526832 10/08/18 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted By planenut
Originally Posted By Joejoe
So it was the fuel pump.
I wonder how many of us have had this fail...we need a poll
Mine: 2 years, 4000 miles

Makes we wonder if I should preventatively replace it every couple of years.


If you replace it with the same specification pump you may well have to do that every couple of years. The solution is to fit a better quality pump. There are even pumps that are designed for high Ethanol content fuel if that is a concern.





I agree with the approach. Since it is under warranty, this round is on Morgan with the OeM pump.


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PaulV #527230 12/08/18 06:14 PM
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Paul,

I believe this to be simply putting insulating wrap such as: Design Engineering, INC. vapor block fuel line split sleeve #010669 (most auto parts supply shops have something similar). This would go on the fuel lines behind the engine and hidden from view.

Did the same on my other Morgan fuel lines, it is a cheap insurance policy.

Bruce


Bruce
1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan)
1994 +8 (Maurice)
2013 M3W (Olga)
HalfFull #543535 18/11/18 05:07 PM
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Had my first break down this summer. Long run back from saratoga springs to NYC. As soon as i hit traffic on the west side highway, cut out and wouldn't restart (not a forgiving place to break down).

Won't go into the details (6 hours of them), but eventually towed and the mechanic i used found it to be the fuel pump, suspected vapor lock, and had many concerns over the design smile. He also wrapped the fuel lines after replacing the pump (though said he also found metal fragments in it he suspected from manufacturing?).

All fine now, though engine light is intermittently going on, filling me with anxiety each time, but suspect i'll have another roadside stop in the next year or 2...

Last edited by ASR3; 18/11/18 05:08 PM.
ASR3 #543583 18/11/18 07:59 PM
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Probably the fuel pump on its way out, a common problem sadly. There is a better fuel pump that can be fitted into the same fuel pump module, a Walbro GSS342 that should be redly available in the USA. If you are still in warranty then get your dealer to replace the pump unit with a standard one, it should last a few thousand miles. The ECU fault codes will need resetting after the pump change. The pump output can be checked ot the test point on the LH injector, it should be 58 psi.

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