Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) New 4/4 Factory Suspension Options

Thanks Robbie, Andymot and Hamwich and all (above). The way forward is now clear.
I’ve just got to focus on the “charm offensive” with SWMBO and then move to invest.

Thanks again.

Just a point to be aware of regarding the Panhard rod on later cars.
The fuel tank now rests on a cradle instead of sitting on the floorboards. On my 2016 the tank also protrudes forward of the cradle.

So on my 2005 there's a four finger gap between the rear of the diff and the fuel tank, it's now a one finger gap.

So space for a Pahard rod is extremely limited.

I've just got some nylatron blocks to experiment with.

Let us know, Dave, how it works with such nylatron blocks because I had mixed experiences with a Panhard Rod, good ones regarding the P4SS where the PR was built in by the factory but bad ones with my former Roadster where the PR was mounted later on, due to unconvenient lateral forces. It really seems to depend on the angle in which the PR is mounted, or some other differences I don‘t know about.

when I got my new 4/4 in 2014 I had a list of must have mods and couldn't wait to fit them but I listened to the wise people on here
and waited and took the time to drive the car and get to know it.


After 10,000 miles in the first year the Sigma was bedded in and it is a jewel of an engine...I then fitted reaction bars (tightened up the front end with sharper turn in )..adjustable spax and panhard rod.


Followed up with librands stainless manifold and exhaust and ecu re-map..the nimble lightweight car really took off and handled well as a fast road car.

The kingpins lasted 25,000 miles with regular greasing and changed them for hard chrome versions.

So the advice is good : get to know your car first and drive it lots!!!

DaveW has a good point. Installing a PR on a car with a four finger gap seems to be a DIY job, perhaps not so - and thus more expensive on a new car. Then one must judge the need for a PR, to me, based on physics it seems a logical step forward, on the other hand I live well with my car as it is, me being a leisurely cruiser.
Heinz, what sort of bad experience did you have with your Roadster, what model was it and what was the issue with angles?
I am well familiar with how a PR works and how it is supposed to be mounted.

Note the term brake reaction bars is something of a misnomer in a similar light to the comfort kit MMC offered as an upgrade for the early M3W's which actually offset a serious steering geometry issue.

Since it provides extra support for the top kingpin mount, aiding suspension security in general, it should be a standard fit and will be at some time in the future I'm sure.

I would drive it for a while & fit brake reaction bars. You won't need anti tramp bars as the 4/4 doesn't have the power to distort the springs enough.

I would say the 5 link changes the cars handling. It is more like a "normal new car" . Having driven a 3.7 l Roadster with it I can't make my mind up if I prefer it.

On the standard set up you can feel the rear squirm around under power even with anti tramp bars & a panhard rod. On the 5 link you don't get that.
But that only happens with high bhp accelerating out of corners; the Roadster S1 has 230 bhp.
For the 4/4 I would say fit adjustable shocks & keeping the MMC rear suspension is a cheaper & better route.

I wonder why they are still fitting floor boards to position the tank on then?

Nylatron blocks - as used by most if not all the Sprint/Hill climb guys (SpeedMog) gives pretty much the same effect as a Panhard Rod and is a lot cheaper. Also, fitting a PR would take them up into the next higher class, against more powerful cars.

I had the same questions about the suspension when I ordered my Plus 4 a few days ago.

I asked the dealer and they suggested to go for the panhard rod kit and the brake reaction bars.

If you could get a picture of the current arrangements Graham it would help!!

The cradle does mean its easier to drop the floor if necessary.