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Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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I've done this job twice before. First on my Roadster when I changed the kingpins way back........scroll right to the end to get the reposted images!

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/55092/4

Then I did it again when I changed the kingpins on my 4/4 Anniversary........and got better at it!!!! Scroll right to the end to get the reposted images!

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/228294/4

This time it would be a breeze, as the kingpins are OK!!!!!!

The order I do this in, after jacking up and securing safely is...........

Remove two caliper securing bolts.....19mm, and hang caliper from frame using a cable tie. I leave the pads in place, they don't go anywhere.

Remove the disc and hub......first straighten the split pin, and remove through the hole in the splines. Remove the nut.....which is 1 & 3/16ths AF.........
This time I put a rubber glove over the hub splines, which worked very well. The stamped washer and outer race usually fall out of the hub at this point and the glove keeps them clean.

Remove the damper. Upper nut is 17mm. The damper shaft has either an allen key (female) or a male 'slot'. The Spax have a 3/16" male slot which takes an open ender. The damper lower nut is 14mm. Each fixing has the usual washers and rubber bushes.

The track rod end is a 14mm, and I use a simple splitter which does the job easily.

The lower plate fasteners are 1/2" AF and the lower kingpin nut is 3/4" AF.

So.....................

My gaiters have kept everything clean down here................



The factory bearing is black and just below centre here........



The hub nut with factory red paint evident........



The components are not painted from new, it's like a passive layer of rust..........I don't go to too much trouble, just rub off the powdery stuff, and apply ....this time....caliper paint.





Then I get the studding out and start to wind down the springs...........



With everything out of the way, I give a good squirt of Tectyl 506 into the cross tubes.





Continued....................>>>>>>>>


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Mulfab bearing on the left, Factory on the right.



I also took the opportunity to fit Cain's (Wolf) lower bearings at the same time.

Everything cleaned up and painted.............



Back together........



The Mulfab bearing in place..........



On the offside, I'd noticed that the wheel bearing was flinging small amounts of grease onto the inner face of the disc. I suspect that the bearing may have run hot from new and liquified the grease, as it was a bit odd looking inside. Here you can see the mess on the inside of the hub............
The close proximity of the speedo sensor has marked the grease............



The stub axle was messy.





But cleaned up quite well..........after a degrease!





Back together.......



46 miles completed today. The difference backing out of the garage was immediately obvious. At low speed the steering is much lighter. Not so noticeable at higher speeds, but definitely worth doing! thumbs


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Dec 2014
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Nice job .👌👌👌 Maybe something for the AR


Stefan

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Nice job Dave, as ever.

2 Questions,

1, Did you notice any increase in wheel vibration (Morgan Dance) after the mod?

2, Can I see tyre rub marks towards the bottom of your reaction stay in the last photo?

Last edited by IvorMog; 18/11/18 06:42 PM.

Bob

2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
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DaveW Offline OP
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Bob.

No increase in vibration. This car has a very slight shimmy which phases in and out. I suspect it's wheel balance but is so slight I can live with it.

The tyres just touch the bottom two inches of the reaction bars on full lock. I've squeezed the bottom of the bars oval and gained 2mm but i would rather they didn't so I'll be taking them off again shortly for further work. I've also raised tbe reaction bars by 3mm and all that has almost provided clearance.

It's said that Morgans have a concession for the MOT in this respect and if so it must be relating to the age of the chassis design which predates MOT regs. Keith at BHM is absolute about that.

I have 185/70's on 4/4 wheels, which have the greatest inset of all the wires so least clearance to the crosshead and reaction bars. My Roadster wheels don't come close to the chassis or reaction bars. There's a finger width gap.

I do have a fall back position in that I have a set of rollers in stock and if necessary I'll fit them!


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Apr 2017
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Thanks Dave,

BTW, what do you use for nibbling your aluminium as per your other thread?


Bob

2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
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See other thread....... grin2


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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On the matter of the current hub mounted speed sensor, I've tracked it down here:

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Honeywell/1GT101DC/?qs=CWSDWQMLkcfq3%252bFb5BFFKw%3d%3d&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_s7fBRDrARIsAGEvF8SBlBiGjEj7eGmndezMeLSJAmrVA5UwfiSvRQEUPtJBQe1eaH7_l6caAu_VEALw_wcB

It's a Honeywell 1GT101DC sensor.

Mouser also stock the diode protected relays which you need for modern Morgans.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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DaveW Offline OP
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There's more, after another day in the garage........

I've done more work on the reaction bars. Up to now the sidewalls have touched the bars on full lock, which has meant that getting in and out of the garage was a bit tricky, because the contact acts like a brake.

Anyway. I've squeezed the bars a bit more so the lower third is now oval and several mm narrower. I've also added 3mm spacers to lift the bars slightly. Finally I've slotted the bottom holes, and chopped a triangle off the corner so that the bottom of the bars fit closer in to the chassis.

This has given me about 5mm extra, and having tested the result on full lock, there is now about 2mm clearance. A sheet of card passes between easily, so job done.

And now for something completely different........... grin2

Do you know what this is????



When the 3.7litre V6 came along, the inner wing valances changed to pressed aluminium, maybe even Superform.

The clearance required for the engine means that the steering column passes through a long oval cut out in the inner wing panel. All current models are like this. On the nearside, I sealed the hole with Reflect-a-Cool, but the offside has niggled me................

So I tried making a cover, without expecting too much success!

It took a lot of fit, cut and fettle, fit, cut and fettle..........on and on........ grin2

This is the slot in the inner wing..................



This was the final test fit. The four brackets are hand made and pop riveted onto the cover.



This is the completed cover, suitably edged.



Fitted and with the brake reaction bar replaced.





And that's it!!!!

Another day done............ thumbs


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Sep 2014
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Excellent Dave

You'll soon have nothing to do !!!!!

If I send my exhaust to you will you polish it please? !!


" I LOVE THE SOUND OF THROTTLE BODIES IN THE MORNING " (ROBERT DUVAL IN "APOCOLYPSE NOW " )
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