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Joined: Sep 2011
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Originally Posted By howard
Best either completely empty the tank before the car goes into store or completely fill it to minimise condensation

Words of wisdom thumbs

I favour "completely fill it", by the way.

Last edited by Gambalunga; 05/02/19 11:26 AM.

Peter

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My personal experience of low winter use over the past 40 years is this:

The only time I had fuel go off was when it was a low level in the tank, and it turned greeny yellow and covered the carbs in a crusty deposit.

With a full tank over winter I never had a problem.

When I replaced the tank on my MGB, there was serious scaly rust along the front edge, the lowest point inside, and around the recess where the filler went. The rest of the inside of the tank was shiny steel.

In terms of 99 octane and ultimate fuels, I just use them, because I believe the detergents will keep things cleaner. Maybe it's a con, but there are more important things to worry about!


DaveW
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Originally Posted By pandy
Originally Posted By howard

Why would it be a bad idea?


The link Peter posted expressed my reservations quite well. particularly for a car that may not get used every day in the wet months.....

"pure ethanol is hygroscopic; it attracts water, to the point that it will pull it out of the air. Ethanol and gasoline will mix, but ethanol, gasoline and water will not; the ethanol-water mixture will come out of solution and settle on the bottom of your tank. Add a little oxygen to the mix, and you get rust. However, the more common side effect of this is more immediate; turn the car on, and the fuel pump will draw the water from the bottom of the tank into the engine, where it will promptly kill it, and require a costly dry-out process."



I have 4 stroke unleaded in the lawn mower over the winter and, so far, it has never failed to start. The Tesco fuel contains 5% ethanol. The fuel tank is plastic, as are most modern car tanks (except Morgan) so corrosion isn't a problem.

If you want fuel that 100% contains no ethanol, or methanol, and has a guaranteed storage time of more than 12 months, get some AVGAS UL91 unleaded from your local airfield. About £1.65/L


Peter,
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No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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I believe that ethanol can react with the rubber pipes and seals on older cars causing them to fail. Newer cars shouldn’t suffer due to better materials resistant to the ethanol.
Remember, ethanol is a hydrocarbon solvent so can react with materials it comes into contact with. This is in addition to the hygroscopic property.
When I flushed and refurbished the fuel system on my 1993 Morgan I replaced the flexible fuel pipes with modern ones, including a Bosch pump that was described as ok for ethanol resistance. I used 95 octane in that car.
My thoughts for a Morgan are...
How old is it and what condition are the perishables?
How much mileage/ how often is it used to make sure fresh fuel is in it?
I do wonder at the effects on the many older Morgans with, for a car, low mileage examples that come up for sale. Visually they can look pristine but age causes hidden issues.


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