Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Changing brake fluid 2010 Roadster

Good morning, once again im tapping into the wealth of knowledge on this site and i need some advice, im going to change out my brake and clutch fluid, ill be using the Sealey pump gubbins to do it, i think i understand how that works, any tips would be appreciated, my real question is, in which order should i do the brakes? From what i understand basically its start with the most remote wheel and work back to the nearest wheel to the master cylinder. Have i got it right?

Hi Steve,

You've got it.

Initially use a syringe or chicken baster and suck out as much old fluid as possible from the master cylinder and top up with new fluid. Then, connect the Sealey pump.

Hope this helps

Ok thanks, one other question, before i actually start the flushing process, is it a good idea to pressurize the system with air only, in other words attach the empty pump to the master cylinder, pressurize it, let it stand for say 10 minutes if pressure remains stable then system has no leaks and i can commence flushing.

I honestly haven't found any difference in whichever order you do this.

I prefer the old fashioned way, starting by removing as much fluid as possible from the master cylinder.

You need to put plenty through the rears as the fluid will come out very discoloured. The fronts being closer, and less prone to internal corrosion takes less.

Hi Steve,

I service my own car and can approach this service item in a slightly different way.

The feel of my brakes are a good indication if all is ok or not.

Then, at every service the wheels and drums are off for hoses, cylinders and calipers to be checked. It's only safely jacking that takes the time and it's not very much at that.

At fluid change I again do the above.

In reality I actually do a visual anytime I have the wheels off eg when cleaning the wires.

I hope this helps.

I just pressurise with air in order to reduce the risk of any mess. It does mean I have to remove the cap routinely to check fluid level in the master cylinder and top it up. I do have the luxury of a compressor and use a secondary pressure regulator to keep the air pressure down to around 7 or 8 psi so as to reduce any risk if the cap leaks or the air pipe come loose. Brake fluid can be corrosive on paintwork, so best to cover nearby panels.

I also feed the fluid from the bleed nipple via a pipe into a jam jar, eventually the pipe should fill with fluid, the fluid level in the jar should cover the end of the pipe, and air bubbles should cease.

Hi Steve,

I use a Sealey because my wife gets mixed up with up and down commands. It did my brain in.

You can use your Sealey to replicate Mike's method.

Do not put fluid into Sealey
Syringe old fluid from master cylinder
Top up master cylinder
Connect Sealey tube/cap to master cylinder
Pressurise the Sealey
Bleed wheel
ENSURE MASTER CYLINDER IS REGULARLY TOPPED UP.

Constantly de-pressurising, topping up and re-pressurising is a pain but, as Mike says, it is paintwork safe should your kit develop a fault.
And yes, use a good fitting piece of tube on the bleed nipple and a jamjar to note the bubbles.

You may get a little fluid on your fingers at some stage eg disconnecting the bleed tube so have some rags at hand to clean them.

Hope this helps

My method is similar butI use an Eezibleed. I use the spare tyre to provide pressure (no need to set up the compressor as asource) BUT.....
Reduce the spare tyre pressure to about 7 or 8 psi. Anything higher pushes the fluid through too fast.
Topping up the reservoir is a pain but allows solo working. is an alternative but gets bored!

One last silly question, handbrake on or off?

Not a silly question but Off.