Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Disheartened owner

A good point. Even if running in is ignored and the car is driven normally from the start, so long as the oil changes are adhered to modern engines are good for 200k miles or more. This equates to more than a couple of lifetimes for a Morgan - and even if something did go wrong, it's not like Ford engine bits are exactly hard to get hold of.

I was told to run in an engine properly you need to use a mineral engine with no friction modifiers and change it after about 500 to 1000 km's. Then you can use whatever oil you like. Remember new cars used to have to go back to the dealer at about 1000 miles but now not until 10,000km or even 15,000km.

So are engines run in on a dyno at the factory like I have been told by lots of dealers or just modern engines not need the oil change due to better tolerances means less metal bits in the engine after running in?

If buying a new car should you ignore the dealer and change the engine, gearbox and diff oil after about 1000km? I know people who do that saying they plan on keeping the car for a very long time and want all the components to last as long as possible.

Maybe worth drawing a parallel with piston aircraft engine's which are run in flat out from new or re-manufacture. The reason given is to maintain high combustion pressures to force the rings out onto the bores and hence speed bedding in of same. Any nannying of this procedure extends the running in process which requires the peaks of bore surface to be knocked off. This also leads to combustion products creeping past the rings and filling the troughs of the bore (needed to retain oil film) causing glazing hence high oil consumption and poor performance.

Typically this takes less than 10 hours of relatively short flights whilst keeping a close eye on oil temp. Oil consumption is closely monitored during this period and the running in is deemed complete and successful when oil consumption stabilises.

I admit that lower rpm's are involved though.

Just to join in....I was told by a man who has rebuilt many motorcycle engines that a new engine should be max revved immediately! The harder the better. For reasons similar to Richard's comments. This chap told me that this method invariably produced a longer, more reliable life span.
I have no knowledge on this, I'm just relaying what he told me.
Nick

Well I can understand the issues the original author of this post has. I too am an new Morgan owner. I just put 150 miles on the new engine and the rebuilt car. Some of the issues I am working through are learning how to shift a transmission that does is not syncro, figuring out how to make the temp gauge work (the dash is electric and the car came with a capillary) and adjusting to the ride.

So, owning a Morgan is a steep learning curve. As I learn more I enjoy the car more. Truly is an adventure into the unknown, but what an adventure.

1. On the misted-up gauges you just have to learn not to get annoyed. It is a result of the Trads having no heater trunking running through the dash like a conventional car. I quite like the fact that it clears just when I reach my destination!

2. On the flat-spot, I have not driven a 2.0GDi but I would strongly suspect that they have ECU adaptive learning and that the engine does not yet have enough data cycles to optimise the dynamic map. Here's what I did on my 4/4 (the stock one, not the Aero racing one) to calibrate the TPS input and reset the ECU to default. My issue was kangarooing rather than flat spots but this (or maybe just time elapsed) did make it a lot better...



- With the engine off, turn the ignition to first click (but don't start it.)

- Press the throttle pedal all the way down & hold for c.30s

- Take your foot off the pedal and take the key out

- Wait another c. 30s and start the engine

- Drive the car with your usual driving style. This is, after all, what you want your ECU to learn!

Even if this doesn't work (if TPS can't be calibrated this way on 2.0 GDi) it's unlikely to make it worse.

Many years ago I worked for VW and my first company car was the Polo, during my first few days I collected my brand new just been released Polo.
Thought I better check on running in procedure, asked about this as I had to drive 250 miles home and was told, see that bridge, about 1/4 mile away, get to that then floor it !!!

Great VW advise.
My Uncle was a great Ford man and got one of the first mini Mustang Capri's when they were released and raked the whotsits off it from day one and that thing went like a rocket. He has continued this procedure for the last 50 years on various BMW, Merc and SAAB products with the same results so I think his theory is good just bury the throttle pedal and keep it there.

There is no doubt that we as Morgan owners fuss too much. Pete is right, these engines are fitted across several Ford models and lots are thrashed from day 1 and survive.

I'm not sure what oil, mineral or otherwise is used by MMC but i changed mine at 500 miles rather than wait until 1000 as per schedule. I figured that any 'wear in' contamination was probably already there by 500 and didn't want it in circulation until 1000. I changed it to fully synthetic and will probably change it again before winter. Like i said we fuss too much.

Without wanting to be rude to the original poster, if misty gauges cause you to consider not using the car in lieu of something like a SAAB then i would suggest that perhaps Morgan ownership is not for you. Its in built peculiarities will irritate you no end.

Tim is right, you cannot think of it as being anything other than of ancient design and build processes with a few modern bits added. Having owned and driven some pre war cars over recent years i'd say the Morgan is by comparison very capable and modern!

If you can i'd say stick with it for the first couple of thousand miles and you may change your mind.

Steve

Please feel free to read any of my posts - The Engine is flat and won't pull - please tell me what sports car is enjoyable if it won't pull which is why it is a pain in the backside and causing me to reach for the Saab. The misting gauge is a disappointment as I expect something from the factory to work when new.

For the record I have raced cars and bike for years so know what an engine should perform like, I'm also a pilot and aircraft engineer by trade and have the pleasure of owning a British built Microlight that needs constant 'adjustment' to remain functional. As a group in or aviation club we smile when 'new' owners of aircraft have high expectations of their machines and don't understand the input required to get the thing right from the factory, I fully anticipated the joy of Morgan ownership would include acceptance of it design issues.

I have a '65 Merc SL that has been with us for 40 years, the last 9 months I've taken on a mild restoration and enjoy getting to the route cause of its many problems. I also opted for a Triumph Bonne' over the BMW as I like to classic feel, the suspension, and other areas have all been 'fettled' as that's what I consider part of the pleasure of ownership, but the thing worked from the factory and gave me a platform. Is that is too much to expect from a Morgan.

Yes gauges would not be an issue IF I was focused of the driving enjoyment but whilst I'm waiting for the car to accelerate I have time to look around the cabin.