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The original rear wheel bearings are not great, it is worth replacing them if you have the rear wheel out. Also have a check of the rear swing arm bearings, particularly the LH one next to the bevel box sprocket. If it doesn't have a dust cover fitted (many seem to have been left off from manufacture) the bearings will be badly corroded. If the rear wheel drive sprocket is made of alloy, rather than steel, it will wear quickly and the belt will screech. The only cure is a new sprocket.

There is a lot of information freely available on the MTWC website 5 Speeder section : https://www.mtwc.co.uk/the-5-speeder/ . The Alternative Parts List has many numbers for items used on the M3W as well, it's listed on this forum and the MTWC website.

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Worn rear bearings sound more like a drone, or groan, maybe. Especially when cornering. Yes, I have had them replaced as well.


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Swede, we should meet up and compare noises. *s*

The clonking sound might be slack in the belt being taken up. Alternatively a loose bevel box. Check for moving petrol tanks, too.
If it is a rattling sound check if the roll over bars touch the aluminium body. In mine it isn“t the petrol shut off valve that rattles.

Etc, etc....

It is when your car is quiet you should worry, then something probably fell off.


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I had what I described as a metallic rattle. It was from too much slack in the belt. Really noisy when I decelerated


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Ha ha ha....I like the "its when your car is quiet you should worry, then something probably fell off" :-)

Planenut....thanx for good advice!! I have just skimmed the surface but the Alternative Parts List is a true goldmine!!!

As soon as I have changed the oil (redline shockproof gear oil) in the bevel box I will take a test drive again and try to locate the noise (without the cover and rear hood)....All your tips and help is really appreciated!!

Thanks again...

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Swede if the chassis modification you had done was the bolt in brace behind the engine that alone is not enough to stop the chassis rails cracking. Mine still cracked & MMC rebuilt mine with a new chassis. Mine is a 2013 car & later 2014 will have the welded triangular brace
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/460939/1

Last edited by TimG; 04/07/19 08:10 AM.
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Originally Posted by TimG
Swede if the chassis modification you had done was the bolt in brace behind the engine that alone is not enough to stop the chassis rails cracking. Mine still cracked & MMC rebuilt mine with a new chassis. Mine is a 2013 car & later 2014 will have the welded triangular brace
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/460939/1


Good point TimG. Worth following up Swede
Its worth reading the entire thread as posted by TimG. It gives you good history and context

Last edited by OZ 4/4; 04/07/19 09:53 AM.

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TimG...Thanks for the information and the longest thread in human history...:-)

I plan to visit our main dealer soon (a nice and long 242 km trip one way) anyway to discuss the brake pedal rebuild and I will also take up the chassis cracking problems with him......I will get this sorted but maybe I will wait until the end of the season (another 2 months).

I have checked both chassis and pedal assembly for wear and sign of cracks but it is looking OK so far....

Currently I am more concerned with my "clonking sound" from the rear....There is always something!

Cheers and thanks!

Last edited by Swedewheeler; 04/07/19 01:44 PM.
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Just a thought, but is your 'clonking sound' constant or only under hard acceleration? If the latter, it could be your belt tension or changing up a little too early; but you sound too knowledgeable not have checked the belt or to lug the engine.

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Hi M3W55!!

Thanks for your feedback.....Belt tension and sprockets are OK. It is not only under hard acceleration...

I have just got the oil for the bevel box so I will fill that and resemble the car and hope to drive again in the weekend. We will see if I can locate it then....

Cheers!

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