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Spray down the belt & use a bit of lubricant spray on it

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Given how noisy these machines are, I don't know how you could hear a bearing noise when accelerating or cruising, unless it was very, very worn out.

Have you jacked up the rear yet and just spun the tire over by hand? If it is a bearing, you should be able to hear or feel a "coarseness". Best test would be to first check with the belt installed, then slacken and remove the drive belt to remove the bevel box from the mix for test 2.


Steve
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Originally Posted by Bitsobrits
Given how noisy these machines are, I don't know how you could hear a bearing noise when accelerating or cruising, unless it was very, very worn out.

Have you jacked up the rear yet and just spun the tire over by hand? If it is a bearing, you should be able to hear or feel a "coarseness". Best test would be to first check with the belt installed, then slacken and remove the drive belt to remove the bevel box from the mix for test 2.

Steve, I appreciate your help. A couple of things:
- I have not jacked it up yet; I have pushed it along and let it come to a stop, to see if I could reproduce it with the tray out (so I could hear where it was coming from ). Didn’t hear it. Would unloading the weight off the rear wheel help isolate the bearings, if that were the problem?

- others are mentioning the belt; mine is fairly tight. Up and down deflection is tough, but rotation gives me about 45 degrees of movement.


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Unloading the wheel, especially without the belt connected, would allow you to determine if there is any roughness or noise coming from the bearing. It would also allow you to try to wobble the wheel top/bottom perpendicular to the car axis to see if there is any play. I suppose there is the possibility of belt noise, as there can be significant belt "slap" during light throttle transitions with a standard engine ECU.


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Hi Joe,

Sounds like they’ve got the belt too tight.

Besides removing the metal flange from the rear pulley, did your service tech offer any reason why the belt was riding so far to the left?

Would suspect all your issues are related.

Last edited by Sportster; 22/07/19 03:03 AM.

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+1 sounds as if the belt is too tight.

Try loosening it off until you get closer to 90 degrees twist in the bottom run.


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Thanks to you all, it was indeed the belt tension being a bit too tight. Small adjustment and noise is gone. Well, that one anyway! Always more noises/music to discover.


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Originally Posted by WilsonLaidlaw
It is not by any chance when you have your partner in the car :-)

Seriously I had horrible noises from the back when I had had incorrectly installed wheel bearings, which consequently disintegrated. To adjust the belt tension, you will need 24mm and 36mm spanners (long shaft are best) as sockets cannot fit in. I use a Bosch laser level for R Wheel alignment. I have alignment marks painted on the inside of the front number plate carrier. You put the laser level on either side of the wheel and check that the laser readings are equidistant from the centre mark on the plate carrier.

Wilson


Wilson, I'm planning a rear wheel bearing replacement, any advice on removal? Thanks


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Wilson, I'm planning a rear wheel bearing replacement, any advice on removal? Thanks

Phil excellent YouTube video on this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbE_qFIf20o

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There is an excellent set of instructions by "Red Three" freely available on the Morgan Three Wheeler Club website that detail removal and refit of the rear wheel and hub. https://www.mtwc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/M3W-Rear-Hub-and-Sprocket.compressed.pdf. In addition to this there is an article about rear wheel upgrades and checks in the MTWC Bulletin magazine in May 2021 edition, although this is available to members only. The information relating to the type and size of bearings is in the Alternative Parts List, also freely available on the MTWC website or at the top of this forum in M3W Resources.

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