Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Upgrade time !

So now that my warranty has come to an end (I mean the car’s warranty) what should I plan to do and how would you prioritise? Everything is still standard, and for the sake of argument let’s assume money is no object, although in reality it is ......

Money no object then Krazy Horse big bore engine upgrade.
Best first upgrade is Stage 1 exhausts and filter MMC or G56

Cheapest go faster tweak, learn how to extend your right foot that bit further on the accelerator, it will make the car go faster.

Ricardo, you'll have the benefit of knowing that many of us did not wait for the warranty to expire to start experimentation! Nor do most upgrades actually mess with typical warranty concerns. There's a legion of ideas in the many threads on this site but the most popular seem to be: Dynomat vibration/sound insulation, removing the cats/baffles or 'Stage 1' exhaust and intake, add an oil cooler, add an 'extended' fan switch, Ohlin/Spax adjustable shocks, better tires, add a dead pedal, add a set of fog/driving lights. if you really want to push it, maybe add cams (Stage !! or !!!) and a custom ECU tune.

Given the inherent fragility of the 'final mile' (Centa), there's only so much one can or should do to increase its load, nor (IMHO) does this toy actually need more HP/torque! . Helping the engine to breathe and to cool better, to be more responsive and making the ride more comfortable yet controlled seem to be the goals of modifications. Open your wallet, clear your calendar.....enjoy!

06032, well said!

Harsh but fair Rog

+1 without a shadow of doubt the first mod should be the exhaust - MMC Stage 1, G56 or at the very least drill out the front baffle.

This is complete list of mods made to my 2016 M3W with brief comments. All well before warranty ran out and seemingly not affecting it.

Fairbourne screen replaces originals - less bufetting, improves driving experience
Two eared front wheel spinners replace hex ones - cosmetic improvement and easy to use
25mm steering wheel spacer - greater leg clearance, easier steering, wheel now Q/R
Springs and proper E clips fitted to bonnet fixings - a little easier to remove/replace bonnet now
280mm fuel sender swapped in, later resistor mod. - each gave improvement but still not perfect
Track rod ends painted matt black to match rest of suspension - made a note to do this after seeing rusty ones on relatively new car
Black thumbscrews replace allen head on rear tray - much easier and quicker to remove tray without tools
Panels behind seats sealed, draught excluder and pipe insulation added - noticeable reduction in transmission noise
Sound deadening rubber added under seats and footwell - no noticeable improvement
NGK Iridium spark plug swap - perceived better starting
Xenon headlamp bulbs replace QH originals - huge improvement in night time use, white light with good dip cut-off
LED bulbs replace side lights - much lower power consumption and whiter light, use them all the time
Reversing light fitted on top of rear light cluster - wiring and switch already there so why not
Steering coupling adjusted to place wheel spokes normally at 8, 12 and 4 o/c - can now easily see tacho with probable safety gains
Rubber plug fitted in redundant bellhousing access hole - keeps the crud out
M3W lapel badge cut down and glued to steering wheel centre - neat, discreet cosmetic mod.
Rear view wing mirrors replaced with Lucas type - no blurring due to vibration but drivers side view limited
Small central rear view mirror fixed to Fairbourne screen - to correct above and give overall improvement on original
Large metal washer on oil tank cap seal - to stop rubber deteriorating (now OE)
Small stick-on elasticated side pockets added to footwell sides - useful but wish I'd fitted slightly larger
Rocker and timing covers powder coated gloss black - personal cosmetic improvement, S & S logo picked out in red
Front wheels and air cleaner cover powder coated metallic silver - wire wheels can be seen now
Excelsior Comp H front tyres fitted at same time - first impression, quicker, lighter steering
Front mudguards have yellow spats painted on leading/trailing edges - can be seen more easily, quite like the splash of colour
Fixings for above and elsewhere replaced with stainless - ongoing cosmetic no brainer given the opportunity
Passenger footwell locker - handy Christmas prezzy
Rear mudguard kit - long overdue and very necessary IMO
Nautilus twin tone air horn - much improved warning
AR stage 1 air cleaner/exhaust kit - better engine breathing and power delivery, great sound
Magnecor KV85 competition plug leads - easier starting from cold

The AR stage 1 kit (exhausts + S&S air cleaner ) came out around £980 inc. VAT which seems good value for money given current prices from other sources.

Richard - you've been busy!

Here's my list:
- CocoMat carpeting throughout the interior, including floors and full length sidewalls (should be stock)
- Dynomat under rear wheel tray, behind and under seats, floors and sidewalls
- Mike Lempert custom steering wheel
- LED headlights
- LED front fogs (pending)
- Ohlins
- Emil's Oil cooler
- Emil's fan switch (keeps the fan operating for 1.4 min after shutdown)
- Wheel spinners
- New style luggage rack
- removed cats and two baffles, retained stock pipes
- Titanium pipe wrap
- Stealth intake
- Upgraded fluids
- MMC indoor and outdoor covers
- Livery graphics (pending)

I'm in queue for a matching livery scheme to my Ural sidecar rig. They make a cool pairing....and it guarantees the M3W is never sold either.
Finally, I'm looking forward to a set of proper tires when the original Avon's wear out.

I have been told in no uncertain terms that I cannot remove the cats

Depends what you like. Drivability and power deliver I would pick stage 2. Stage 3 gets expensive and haven’t heard much about. I have stage 2 with roller rockers and think it transforms the motor.

Personally I am curious about shocks like ohlins

My money though would be on lights (jw speakers) if you drive at night.

I did a short shifter and new knob which is good if you enjoy shifting. I might enjoy it too much

Forget all this go-faster nonsense! 1st thing to do is to make your drive train more robust & servicable, i.e. Bleazey Centa & BB mount kits (also consider the KrazyHorse doughnut Centa replacement). Only after doing this should you go down the Stage 1 route. Oh, and +1 on the Fairbourne screen.