Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Problems with new battery!

My 3 year old Banner died and left me stranded about a month ago. I did some research here on the forum and decided to make the investment in a lithium replacement battery. I went with the Anti-Gravity ATX30-RS. I bought it on Amazon. Here's the link:

Antigravity ATX30-RS Lithium RE-START Battery, Replace YTX30, YIX30, others
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079V4D1Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.q3tDbR6C9EV6

The new battery fit quite well, but since the new battery is about an inch taller than the Banner, the original j-bolts were a bit short, so I ended up just using long tie-wraps to secure the battery to the tray. The fitment is fine and access to the battery terminals was not an issue.

The M3W turned over really well the first time I started the car. The Anti-Gravity battery has 880 cranking amps, which is quite good.

Here's my problem....I went away for a week, and didn't connect my new battery to a trickle charger/maintainer, and to my astonishment when I turned the key, there was nothing!!! There was zero power going to the Morgan! The battery went into a low power shut down mode and was effectively dead, but the Anti-Gravity has a Restart feature that saves the battery from completely draining, and it reserves enough power to start the car. I pushed the restart button on the top of ten battery and instantly I had power. The volt meter on the dash read 12..8V. The engine turned over immediately.

The car drove fine after that but I went away again, and didn't have a lithium battery maintainer. I went to start the Morgan today and again it was dead! The battery was in failsafe mode again, and I had to press the Restart button and it fired up after that. I drove the car and I was about 20 mins into my drive I started to smell something bad! It was a smell of burning plastic. I looked at the voltage indicator on the dash and it was reading 14.4V. The hazard lights started automatically flashing and the check engine light flickered. I pulled over and let the car idle. The voltage dropped back down to 13.2V and the smell dissipated.

I drove home cautiously and parked the car in the garage. I connected a new CTek lithium charger to the battery and it is currently charging. Seems to be charging properly right now, but I am scratching my head and wondering what is going on with my Morgan and my battery.

My new lithium battery should not be dying or going into a failsafe mode in one week of inactivity. Something is draining the battery, yet I have no accessories connected to it.

My new lithium voltage is also fluctuating and causing my car to respond in strange ways! I assume the 14.4V voltage spike was the cause of the flashing hazards and flickering check engine light. What do you think?

Maybe I have a bad lithium battery. I have it connected to a charger/tender now, so we'll see how it holds up over the next week. It really shouldn't need a tender, especially since I'm driving the car roughly once a week!

I'm inclined to bring the car in for service to get it checked out at the dealership, though I think my warranty just ran out!

Should I just buy another battery and see how it responds? Really could use some help here!

-Tom

Very strange. Sounds like the battery itself is fine but the software controlling it is suspect. I would suggest contacting the manufacturers to confirm how it should work. A conditioner when not in use for an odd week or two should not be necessary.

I would also mention to the manufacturers the crude current dumping motorcycle charge system you have on the S & S engine. 14.4 volts is the correct regulated charge voltage once above idle, but it seems your new battery didn't like it or the charge system couldn't cope!

The M3W factory fit battery at 30 amp/hrs is inadequate long term, but there are plenty of higher capacity slightly taller lead/acid ones at a fraction of that crazy price.

insert a current meter between the battery and the m3w electrics and confirm what your current draw is in standby...dont crank your engine or you'll blow the fuse in the current meter!

So here's an update....

I connected a CTEK lithium charger to the battery yesterday through the cigarette lighter. I let it charge overnight and according to the lights on the battery charger, it appeared to be at full charge.

After disconnecting the charger, and turning the key one position, I noticed the voltage on the dash was 13.7V. The motor cranked over easily and the voltage increased to 14.4V.

I drove about 10 miles and the voltage remained steady at 14.4V. I turned the lights on, and the voyage dropped to 14.2V.

The car drove well and like normal.

So I guess my issue is that something is draining the battery when it's parked and not connected to the charger. Either that, or the battery is faulty and unable to maintain a charge.

BuyBritish, how can I test the current between the battery and the electronics? Where do I put the volt meter? Do I do this when the car is running or off?

Is there a way to test if there is any current draw on the battery when the car is off?

Thanks guys for your help!

As said earlier put an amp meter between the battery and the positive terminal, should read zero. DO NOT TRY TO START OR OPERATE ANY CIRCUITS WHEN THAT IS HOOKED UP. NO NEED TO HAVE A KEY IN THE IGNITION, PERIOD, NOTHING ACTUATED.

Okay, so since the battery is currently already connected to the car, all I need to do is put the meter on the positive terminal when the car is off and see if there is any measurable current? Sorry if I'm seeming incapable.....I am not familiar with electrical connections.

Really appreciate your help.

polar, you need to remove the positive connection to the battery and the Ammeter needs to be connected inline between the battery post and the connector.

Disconnect the positive lead from the battery, connect the meter between the positive lead you have just disconnected and the positive connection on the battery. Make sure your meter is on an Amp range and see what the reading is, you may need to switch to a mA range subsequently to see if there is any current flowing, make sure ignition/lights etc are off.

Dont know if this is useful ....
The immobilisor on the 3 wheeler pulls current when the car ignition off , so that after two weeks of not being used the battery can be heavily drained.
Loads of past threads about the use of battery conditioners when standing.
I believe some folk have even disconnected the immobilisor because of this.
There will be lots of chat on this if you search.

Good thought Nippymog, that would kill a battery. Anything, like car alarms and security cameras will draw current from the battery.