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Joined: Dec 2009
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Tricky Dicky
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Tricky Dicky
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Originally Posted by paulmog
Well after having the PCB replaced after waiting the best part four months for the Factory to supply one it failed again. Fortunately BHM had one in stock so I'm now on to my third! My warranty expires next month!!

When the fan switch disintegrated on my 2009 at 3 months old I investigated "that" board and decided it was probably designed by a GCSE student and promptly put it back in and called upon the warranty. In my 48 years working in electronics I have never seen anything quite as poorly designed or executed.

I am glad my Plus 8 is a hard wired one, it does look like knitting in the loom department but it does work and has had many full on water tests down here on the English Riviera umbrella sunny umbrella Had I have kept the Sport I would have hard wired and replaced that part of the dash with an alloy switch panel.

Paul you probably know but just incase don't forget to waterproof it as per JohnV6's advice.

p.s. I hope they have a better version in the Plus6 !


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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A failed PCB is a good excuse for a trip to Milan. Get Borghi to install a custom dash (much better than the original and in the timber of your choice( and at the same time he will replace the PCB with a hard wired solution and relays. Simples! End of problem for ever.


Peter

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I share your frustration... my rev counter and temperature gauge just went haywire. I had my old board which I swapped the flyback diodes on, so refitted that and its working for now.

Whilst hard wiring the switches will bypass the silly relay bits on that board, I fear that other things - like the rev counter connection to the BCM - may not be quite as straightforward?
Anyone been able to remove the whole board entirely?

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Originally Posted by Nickplus4
I share your frustration... my rev counter and temperature gauge just went haywire. I had my old board which I swapped the flyback diodes on, so refitted that and its working for now.

Whilst hard wiring the switches will bypass the silly relay bits on that board, I fear that other things - like the rev counter connection to the BCM - may not be quite as straightforward?
Anyone been able to remove the whole board entirely?

See my post above somestick


Peter

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Hiya Peter,

There is more on that board than the switches and relays for the front windscreen, fog light, hazards, heater and heater fan.... iirc there are a couple of dsps and another chip. I suspect some is for the air con. But with the rev counter, gauges and speedo coming through that board, I wondered if all the circuitry is bypassed?

Cheers
Nick

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I don't know what connection the guages have with the board, To be honest I don't think they need the board at all. It is just that some guages use the same fuse as othether items that are attached to the board. Some of the switches did need to be changed but I can't tell you which. They are modular units and only the rear electrical section had to be changed. I also added another switch for the front fog lights, though actually they are really driving lights and as such I had them connected to the high beam relay so that they go off when I dip the headlights.
This is the result but I also changed the instruments too.

[Linked Image]

The below is a more standard setup but has a completely hard-wired circuit.

[Linked Image]


Peter

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