Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Rectifier issue?

The HD unit is a direct replacement for the CE original Nippymog. The only thing that needs to be changed is the ring tag on the end of the long lead that goes up to the terminal block near the battery, it needs a larger ring. The only other plug is a square 4 pin AMP type plug about 6" down the loom from the rectifier. Check it is fully connected and locked when you connect the plugs, it can be stiff to engage fully. Use cable ties on the loom to stop any chaffing. Check you have about 14.5v when the engine is running.

Let me understand this correctly, when using the HD rectifier the connector is a straight sway, just plug it in securely.

There are two other wires coming out of the rectifier. One with a red lug on the end and the other with a black lug on the end.

Is the black one to go to the negative of the battery or the nearest ground?

Where is the red, which I assume is positive, supposed to go? To the red lug in front of the lil tank? Is that the wire that disappears into the loom in that wire mess by the oil filter?

You are correct, the HD connector plugs directly into the M3W harness, the black wire goes to the same earth as used by the CE rectifier and the red wire as you say disappears into the loom and is connected to the B post, the red lug in front of the oil tank. The ring terminal on the red wire does need changing for a larger size to fit the B post.

I know some people have just cut the CE red wire near the rectifier and spliced the HD wire to it, but it is not too much effort to feed the wire through the loom, you just need to cut all the cable ties and then replace them once done.

Rog, thanks for the info.

One last question. I understand that the bolt hole line up to allow for deleting the bobbins. Should i just bolt the new HD unit to the flat plate and call it good or should i try to stand it off the plate and if so how far?

You can just bolt the HD unit direct to the mount, no bobbins are needed.

An easy way to feed the red wire through to the B post, undo all the cable ties, cut the ring terminal off the CE rectifier air the B post attach a length of wire to the end, you can then pull the old wire through the loom until the wire you attached appears, attach the HD wire to this and then pull it back through the loom.

Thanks Rog👍

It’s absolutely imperative that if an in-line splice is fitted, it’s fully insulated and heat shrunk or a two piece environmental splice is used of the correct size & that the splice is put in a position to allow sufficient lead from the rectifier to ensure its under cover rather than left out in the open even with the insulation as mentioned. Bear in mind it carries the main positive output from the generator.

Also it’s advised to insulate the terminal on the bulkhead post too and ensure the connector is fully home and locked with the spare pin/socket hole environmentally sealed with sealing plugs.

Any electrical short on this positive line with the generator running will cause max current across the windings and burn them out & any short presented across the phases will have the same effect.

Good advice Mark. How do you know all that then???? Probably the same way that I know a fairly minor bump results in a bent chassis and a change.

I'll agree with that and suggest that rather than feeding the new lead through the existing trunking with the other wires, tight spots and twists and turns, just get some more flex trunking, run the cable through it on its own and attach it alongside the loom with a very few tie wraps. Makes it very easy to install and to swap out when required.

When I was trying to use a filter bypass for my cooler, I ran a wire down to the filter area and slide that wire through a clear tubing in order to protect the wire.