Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Part identification help needed

I have a Haynes manual but can not copy and paste it to TM Help! I received this from TM about 3 years ago

Quick update:

I reached out to ATP electronics for a replacement 104080 and await their follow-up (a rebuild was requested and we should know if all is good to go in a few days; i hope). Shoutout to Steve at ATP for clarifying my concerns about the immobilizer. It would appear that , since there is no such function on the '96 plus four that the appropriate wiring to get the car to start is already in place and hence the ECU would be a straight swap irrespective of immobiliser function. (Very open to anyone's rebuttal here of course).

Regarding the infamous relay, it remains a tossup since i found the rover 800 relays listing on Rimmerbros and it has only one that looks similar to the one in the Plus Four. it;s listed as YWB100800 ("Relay-Air conditioning"). The hunt continues!

Hi.

The relay is a combined unit for the starter and fuel pump, and it's a pretty standard unit from an MGF/ ZR/ ZS /ZT/ Freelander. Secondhand ones are readily available for about £10.00 or less.
I seem to recall that the other relays contained in the unit are surplus to requirements in the Morgan.

Whether or not it's the cause of your problem is another matter, but I know on my 1999 +4 T16 that I used to own the fuel filter was almost blocked solid. When I replaced it the car ran a lot sweeter, so it might be worth checking before you do too much more investigating, as the fuel might be struggling to get through.

Here's hoping you'll get it sorted soon.

sid, Ten out of ten and a gold star for that info, nice to know that some things do not change at Morgan

Indeed many thanks for the tip Sid.

Quick update from ATP. Alas they were unable to source/build an ECU so back to square 1 on that part. Unfortunately, getting the part over to ATP remains a last resort option I cannot exercise at this time (the car itself being in france and the whole family being over here in Canada until next week.

With that said, I noted in another thread (Immobiliser help) that the following was stated:


Would this mean that the T16 on a plus 4 would take a straight swap from those other model ECUs (I had been focusing exclusively on the MKC104080 and its successors)?

Pending further research to answer the above, i'll be sourcing an MFU and fuel filter .

A.E. Wilcox, Wickwar, Glos. from an earlier thread which proved successful/ Alternatively you might ask Omex in Cheltenham who are very good. My M16 did not have an immobiliser .The ecu was primarily responsible for the fueling map.
I also found a reference to an ECU on a 93 t16 being MKC10034e

Thanks again for all avenues suggested here.

At this stage, I took the plunge and ordered the following:
MFU: YWB10041 (seems to be the only relevant model number i was able to reference. TRW sticker colour matches so there;s at least that)
ecu/MEMS Unit: MKC10115E (Although it clearly isnt a MKC104080 like the one on now, it was directly referenced by jbl as being on a T16 plus four and no immobiliser; the one i found is new in box at a very reasonable price )

Next stop is checking the scrap/salvage lots near cholet for cars with T16 engines to see if any may have an MKC104080

Ordered parts should arrive late this week or early next (both sourced form the UK so Seller response time + Royal Mail to France )

Fingers crossed for some resolution to get things sorted in time for M.C.F's "La Mer Et Les Poissons" in 2 weeks

I have to admit to next to zero hands on knowledge of modern electronic gubbins in vehicles as I kinda lost interest when it appeared on the scene as my chosen forum i.d. suggests.. (-:

A do have some experience in working with digital electronic kit of a wide variety of types and from that it would seem that a Trad Morgan would require very little in the way of specialised inputs and outputs to return it to service if it`s ECU was fried for any reason... ?

I suspect the ECU basic circuitry though appearing very complex will be made up of relatively standard internal input and output devices to connect to a variety of sensors as inputs to create the information necessary to then make decisions relative to controlling the outputs to the injectors...

The programme for output control relative to the inputs it receives, is the decision making part of the ECU and is known as the EPROM, also commonly known as the "CHIP" You may have read of folk re-chipping their cars for more performance... some chips can be fitted to bases in the circuit board to allow them to be unplugged from a socket arrangement and a replacement chip to be plugged in.

Some chips have a fixed programme and others can be re-programmed..?

If you are following this then dependant on what fried the ECU it may just be possible that water got on to part of the circuit within the ECU and damaged it, leaving the chip undamaged, thus a replacement ECU perhaps not programmed exactly as the "original" is just a generic device that would operate as the original if the chip from the original was installed in the replacement unit.... A long shot perhaps...?

If you accept that an ECU can be a generic device with options to be specifically programmed and that the CHIP is the brains behind the operation, then you might be comfortable with the idea that the ECU does not require to be an exact number matching bit of kit to the original or indeed even look like the original box of tricks, though the input and our plugs would ideally be the same... Other than that you are into fitting replacement plugs to your loom.

There would seem to be quite a few manufacturers out there supplying aftermarket ECUs that are suitable for the home mechanic to programme to suit the vehicle in question.... they also supply programming for your lap top which contains the parameters necessary to create a base control strategy and instructions on possible adjustments to alter the fueling solutions... Yeah hard to believe perhaps but with a bit of courage and understanding and the on line help desk it might be possible that you could bring life back to an otherwise totally dead car...?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tuning-pro...1&ascsubtag=5d6b8e90eba0c90a984f7b1f

I guess the tricky bit is to know what caused the damage to the original ECU if it was water ingress and you have solved that then great, but if you fit a replacement ECU that might have been damaged as the result of a wiring issue or over voltage then you may fry the replacement too.... OUCH..!

Just passing a slow Sunday Morning in type.. More than happy to be corrected if you think I have got it wrong.. (-:

That's the exact reason i went ahead and ordered the ECU with a different model number than the one fitted (with at least some minor assurance of it having been used on a plus 4 with a T16 engine successfully per the quoted forum post).
I also believe only a partial set of functions is necessary for the morgan use-case (as compared to, say, it being fitted on a rover 800 series).

When it comes to automotive, i would like to consider myself "luddite2" given my preference for not just no electronics but even going as far as preferring carburettors to injection
I can't go too far in naming considering my dayjob is heavily into IT/networking/information security. I just like my motors the old fashion way (Can see it all, can reach it all, can fix it all)

I'll keep you all posted on progress of course.

I have recently converted My Carbed +8 to EFI. It improved the performance, but not that much. Certainly not Cost Effective. I was mainly curious of How Much Improvement I would get from the EFI. Not much I would find out but as it is installed I would like to keep it. It is particularly effective at the higher altitudes that I have been driving lately. ie: The Rocky Mountains are in the 10,000' range. It is an aftermarket unit. Not Rover and it is not designed to reduce emissions. I am often well over 1,000 miles from Home. Not sure what I would do if it failed.