Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Part identification help needed

Cannuck, as you are ..err..digitally aware, I`m guessing you opened up the ECU to determine if the chip was mounted in a socket, and distinguish as to whether it was an EPROM or an EEPROM... and if EPROM perhaps you have the kit to copy the programming and flash a new chip... I guess it would be really handy to copy the programming onto some spare chips in the off chance while messing around it gets corrupted either in the original or replacement ECU....


Hey Button, saw your piece in Format the Californian Morgan club Magazine, I am fortunate to get sent a copy each month.... Your looking good, better than I do... (-:

EFI is so much more efficient though best to have fuel filtration to match as filtering for carbs does not need to be so fussy..But then I guess you upgraded the filters as part of your modification process... I note you have concerns as to the repair processes should you have an EFI fault while far from home, I suspect a good quality basic system will be very robust. of course being digital it can be possible to to programme all sorts of bells and whistles to add all sorts of complexity if the unit has enough capability and most do.. but perhaps best to keep it simple..?

A friend bought an old V8 Lexus with all the bells and whistles the intention being to use the engine in his Ford F100 p/u truck. He worked his way through the loom cutting a wire at a time and then firing up the engine after every cut to be sure he had not cut out anything critical to the basic operation, once he had cut his way through the majority of the loom and was happy he could install the tidied up remnants in the F100, he took the key out... next time he tried to start the engine...NOTHING DOING... the action of removing the key and replacing it had required a signal that was no longer in circuit.... Yeah carbs, points and a distributor are pretty simple to understand by comparison...

"A friend bought an old V8 Lexus with all the bells and whistles the intention being to use the engine in his Ford F100 p/u truck. He worked his way through the loom cutting a wire at a time and then firing up the engine after every cut to be sure he had not cut out anything critical to the basic operation, once he had cut his way through the majority of the loom and was happy he could install the tidied up remnants in the F100, he took the key out... next time he tried to start the engine...NOTHING DOING... the action of removing the key and replacing it had required a signal that was no longer in circuit.... Yeah carbs, points and a distributor are pretty simple to understand by comparison..."

While a guest of Tcherek and Bill Fink I asked Bill to sell Me the latest EFI that He had that had been removed in the days of Propane. It was a 13CU 3.9 Rover unit. After carting this heavy blob a 1,000 miles home I have it on my dining room table with the harness all stretched out and with the ECU that came with it. Lorne Goldman assured Me that the ECU was for a 13CU system. Interestingly there are no Oxygen Sensors used on this unit. I understand that this particular unit was just for North America to satisfy California Law. My plan is to have the Throttle Body EFI that is now on the +8 tested by a Rolling Road. I need a starting point. Next Winter, when I am bored, I will exchange the Aftermarket unit for the Rover 13CU MultiPort unit and hopefully get it running. Then take the +8 for another test on the Rolling Road and compare the results of each test. I know, I know but My curiosity is controlling.

Button, you are nothing if not adventurous...(-: With EFI, I would be happy just to have an operational system rather than fiddle with it, that stuff can frustrate me, to the extent I feel foolish. From a very dull memory the airflow sensing device "flapper" having moving parts would seem to be a potential source of issues in time having a mechanical flap attached to a variable resistance and wiper involved in its construction, the flapper may be a tad larger and more complex than some of the later hot wire devices used to sense air flow.

I helped a pal resolve some issues with his Rover V8 engined TVR and the air flow measuring device was perhaps 1/2" in diameter and 1 1/2" long tube, presented to the airflow through a hole bored in an alloy tube.. certainly nothing sophisticated about that, but it worked just fine, the ECU was nothing like the size of the Rover units I have seen, and much more compact... Some of that early Rover kit is stone age by comparison with the later digital kit.... If I remember during the GoMoG webmasters search for answers he cut open the loom and found a set of resistors, one for each injector hidden within...? I suspect there will be a modern system that is perhaps far more compact, reliable, efficient and adjustable from sport to economy mode with the push of a button, and programmable from a cell phone...? But I ain`t selling that as any kind of ideal, my inclination were I in the US might be inclined towards a down-draught Weber.... Although given that you fly in thin air altitudes at times... hmm..???

I suspect the real value of the system you got from Bill may be as spares for folk with flapper systems who are in need of replacement parts, the flapper it`s self being the most suspect point of failure perhaps..? But then perhaps the challenge in increasing your understanding of EFI systems is that which drives you...? (-:

If seeking information in book format on vehicle electrics including early EFI I use the Bosch publication Automotive Electric/Electronic Systems. ISBN 1 85226 021 1 I have no doubt they may have updated it somewhat from the time when I bought it..

I think the EFI thing came into being to cut down on pollution by producing more accurate fuelling creating what were then known as lean burn engines.... Thinking in a simple fashion as is ever my way, lean burn would seem to equate to what I in carburettor parlance might think was weak mixture ...? Weak mixture in times past would cause holes to be burned on piston crowns so plenty of extra HEAT there...? Following a similar line of thought, that EFI engines might run hotter, then it seems logical (?) that such a change in engine design would have more dependence on cooling..? I remember on a run through traffic with a more modern +8 following close behind me, that I could hear his fan running constantly, whereas mine did not run for anything like the same length of time... More load on the battery and alternator etc.etc.etc..hmmm..?

In conclusion having read your submission in Format re overheating, perhaps EFI may cause issues re engine temp when introduced to an engine that may not be designed to operate with a lean burning fuelling system, that typed, I suspect the lean burn technology may have come in with the 3.9 unit...? Whereas I think the early flapper systems were fitted to 3.5...? Whether the lean burn engines were greatly modified in terms of materials used in their construction to cope with higher temperatures, or water galleries increased in size or more efficient water pumps or increases in efficiency of the radiators... I know not.

Just thinking in type as ever and claiming ZERO expertise.. and as ever more than happy to be corrected.

Hi there, jbk's comment about the potential of an alternative with Pt No MKC10034e & 10115e is very interesting and useful piece of info. I had my MKC104080 (T16 Morgan +4 1998) rebuilt by ATC Drivetrain of Cannock in June 2024 it had an ignition and fuel pump output issue, I had to return it to get it set for 'Free running' (by passing the immobiliser). Like most Morgans of any age if you do have a Lucas 5AS immobiliser and your key fob is US or not even in existence then you probably don't give the immobiliser any thought as it will set to 'run'. However my fob was long gone and I had to rely on the ECU being set to accept that. I have since had a MAP sensor issue (the sensor is inside the ECU and is not user serviceable), the car intermittently would either fail to start or start but not run well at idle and jus die. I sent it back under lifetime warranty and they repaired it and it wouldn't run at all, (it had run previously most of the time), so sent it back and I'm waiting for the next step, will it work...........? I don't know yet, I'll repost and let you know.

I keep a constant search for a 104080 but the info from jbk has set me thinking about (non immobiliser) 10030e / 10115e

Really interested in if the MKC10115e functions correctly and if it is OK without the immobiliser, if it did then this really may be the answer to a replacement for the 104080, pray to god!
please post your results good or bad

Hi the relay box is the MFU (multifunction relay unit) The Pt No is YWB100710, it controls the Lambda, ignition, starter solenoid and fuel pump functions (via instruction from the ECU)
With regards to the bad idling and stalling mine did the same and it was the MAP sensor, this is part of the ECU and is not a user serviceable part. The MAP sensor controls the air fuel ratio and the vacuum pipe that connects to the ECU / inlet manifold is crucial, so make sure this pipe is not split or rotten or lose, its a cheap fix and will mislead your ECU like crazy.
If you need the pin out identification and diagram of the internals and functions, please let me know. I'd be happy to fwd the doc I can be contacted at stephen60plus4@gmail.com.