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#597237 29/09/19 11:24 AM
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Following a self-tuning performed by my M3W...:-). It had melted and totally disintegrated the cat on the left hand side and all the pieces had blocked the pipe just by the first baffle (so it actually only made half the job)

I have now drilled out all baffles on both sides and also "de-catted" the right hand cat. This as a quick fix until I decide on what afftermarket exhausts to install.

Next step is to change out the air filter and I have seen a lot of threads and talk on different airfilters.....The question is which filter I should opt for?? I am a bit concerned with the filter style that are totally open to the front?? Sometimes I have to drive home in rain and that just can't be good?

Thanks for your input!

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Hi,
Your cats melted cause the pipes get so hot by the Heads when the silencer baffles are still in place.
Drilling out those two silencer restrictors cools the whole lot down. There is nothing wrong with the full open Air Filters, I have a Kuryakin chrome fully open one. We have driven in monsoon rain across UK and Europe, the engine never misses a beat.
Rgds
ian


Ian
Morgan Family 1929 ( KTW 1100cc )
Morgan S/S 1934
Morgan F4
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+! don't worry about an open air filter. I've done over 25,000 miles in all weathers with the MMC stage 1.


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Originally Posted by chocadoodledoo
Hi,
Your cats melted cause the pipes get so hot by the Heads when the silencer baffles are still in place.
Drilling out those two silencer restrictors cools the whole lot down. There is nothing wrong with the full open Air Filters, I have a Kuryakin chrome fully open one. We have driven in monsoon rain across UK and Europe, the engine never misses a beat.
Rgds
ian

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Hi all!
Thanks for the feedback. If you guys can run with open filters on your rainy island it should work for me too!!: -)

I am in the process now to polish and take all the blue out from the headers and exhaust before I assemble everything again, but I cannot wait to hear what it will sound like now :-)

/David

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I suspect you'll be satisfied enough with the free-flowing stock exhaust and any free-flowing intake that you won't miss the 'official' Stage 1. When I did this, I was concerned that the ECU might not compensate adequately but she runs (and sounds) like a champ. The longer stock pipes move the noise aft.


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Originally Posted by 06032
I suspect you'll be satisfied enough with the free-flowing stock exhaust and any free-flowing intake that you won't miss the 'official' Stage 1. When I did this, I was concerned that the ECU might not compensate adequately but she runs (and sounds) like a champ. The longer stock pipes move the noise aft.


Probably very true. I just wanted to keep a set of oem pipes and not wreck the warranty, but if those are not a concern then boring out the pipes and having the noise further aft is a plus👍


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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I agree, fitting a free-flowing air intake and carrying out a "baffelectomy" has given me a great running and sounding trike for a fraction of the cost.


Bruce
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Thank you all for your comments and feedback!!

I put everything together yesterday and had a great testdrive (getting cold now in Sweden).....What a difference!! The end result of the sound was so much deeper than expected and the rumble at idle....:-). The car felt so much more responsive and happier....

I have a 2012 and do not know if and when they made changes but I also had three baffles on each side. The first was solid, forcing all exhausts around it and the other two had holes but together it must have been sooooo restrictive. I do not understand how the engine could run before at all.

Yes! It is really loud at full blast but not disturbing you the driver so much......I am totally happy with this for now and I will wait to change for any other aftermarket system.

For the testdrive I just cut the original airfiltercover open all way round and even just doing that helped the car to breath much better....I know it was a very crude job but this was just for the test yesterday. I have been looking at the Kuryakyn Mach 2 air filter.......and since I am still a child inside I also want the Zombie Cover for it...I have tried to check if this will fit on our S&S units but I have not found any info on it? The reference charts only refer to HD engines and models. How do I know if this filter would work for my car? Any thoughts on that?

Thanx
/David

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[Linked Image]

Last edited by Swedewheeler; 02/10/19 12:53 PM.
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David, the small cone that penetrates the mouth of the throttle body creating a smooth Venturi air flow is what makes the air cleaner really work well. Put an S&S Stealth cleaner in it and you will be amazed. The MMC Stage 1 has the stinger it it and it is what makes it work.
The funny thing is that the AR Stage 1 cleaner has a smaller surface area than the factory issued cleaner.

I would not have believed had I not tried it. Now between the free flowing exhaust and that cleaner it is a much nicer car to drive.

Someday I would like to try some S&S mufflers modified to put their exhaust exit further toward the rear with a stinger on their output.


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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