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I'm with IJM on flat bottom steering wheels. They look wrong to me & I hope they are a pointless fashion fad like vinyl roofs. I don't see how they give perceived extra clearance if you have to go round corners. Even worse eccentric boss & flat bottom.
The car I tried before buying had a wood rim which I did not like feel of & was too thin, but its your money & your choice.

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Originally Posted By Rog G
A 15.5 inch wheel


Thank you, Rog, any other pics..or the link.. of this car would be greatly appreciated. With the saddle interior, this charcoal grey met is what I'm currently thinking..

OK, now to my eye...and granted, I haven't lived with the car..the larger wheel looks better proportioned to the interior..

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Plenty of other pictures in the post link below or search for posts by "Blake"

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/140812/4


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Originally Posted by The Austrian
Originally Posted by Michael H
How hard, or easy, was it to swap the tachometer with the speedometer?

Was done by the dealer upon my request when I purchased the 3W.
Seems to be rather easy according to his comments.


This is great news since the tachometer is totally obscured by the wheel above 2800rpm. I would far rather know what the engine is doing than the speed. I got into higher revs last week and got some popping and a drop in power where I immediately shifted. Have no clue what the rpm was other than it was considerably higher than 3000rpm.

It makes me want to try the smaller two handled split wheel.

[Linked Image]


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After trying 3 different wheels, I have come back to the stock wheel. Hard rimmed wheels made my hands hurt on long drives and the stock wheel felt fine at the same distances. To solve the tachometer viewing conundrum, I moved the tach to the driver side (LHD) and then flipped the wheel 180 degrees (one spoke straight up) by drilling three new holes and adding polished button head Allen’s to the old holes. With spokes at 12, 4 and 8 o’clock, the tach is easily readable through the 12 to 4 window. My old wheels make nice garage wall decorations.

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Quote

This is great news since the tachometer is totally obscured by the wheel above 2800rpm. I would far rather know what the engine is doing than the speed. I got into higher revs last week and got some popping and a drop in power where I immediately shifted. Have no clue what the rpm was other than it was considerably higher than 3000rpm.

It makes me want to try the smaller two handled split wheel.

[Linked Image]


Not sure about the S&S motors, but I do know that Harley has a rev limiter and it will spit and sputter at max rpms until you shift. Stock Harley rev limiters are usually set at 5200 and with most tuners it bumps up to around 6,000.

You may want to check it out and see what rpm it misses at and see if it's around 5,200.

Good luck.


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Rolsmith, I have the wheel in that position but my vertically challenged self (5'6") is having the tach blocked by the rim and not the spokes. If I was shorter it would be fine, if I was much taller it would be fine but sadly I am not taller and god forbid being any shorter. That is the reason I was interested in swapping the tach to the passenger side.

Dan, I thought it might be a rev limiter but without a dealer to ask I thought I would start looking here. 5200 might have been reached so I will pursue that train of thought. Thanks.


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Have play with the ProTune software and connect to the ECU.
You can see history of max revs , temps etc.
Good to check fault codes etc
Tune map is locked so you can't change anything but there is a fair amount of historical data..

You also have access to a live gauge view with real time info

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I will have a look at ProTune history, I keep forgetting it records history.


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During the first 2 hours of operation the engine rev limiter is 4250 RPM. From 2 hours to 20 hours of engine operation the rev limit is 5125 RPM. After 20 hours the rev limit is set at the engines maximum RPM of 5800 RPM.


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