Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Oil change before or after winter strorage

I have traditionally put about 2000 miles per spring-summer-fall on my M3W, with an oil change right before storing it away for December through April (Chicago salt and snow). This year, due to some medical issues, I only put 1000 miles in. Oil was changed one year and 1000 mile ago, looks very clean. Would you change the oil before storing, or replace when waking it from hibernation? Thanks.

I would stick to your normal routine and change the oil before storage. For the price of oil its a cheap safeguard change, oil deteriorates even when not used and the particulates left standing on metal parts without being moved about can cause problems in the long term.

Quite agree, there will still be a certain amount of "stuff" hanging in the oil so change it but perhaps don't completely fill thereby leaving a little space to pour in the last bit in the Spring when it will run all over the important parts just before you start it up.

Britmog, Lowerbird, do either of you have an qualitative or quantitative data to back up your remarks remarks.

Most direction for storage of a vehicle with a combustion engine has the following advice:

If you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days, consider getting the oil changed. Used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine or lead to sludge buildup.

When an engine is used the explosive nature of combustion produces acidic residue which when the engine is not used will attack the soft metal surfaces in the engine. Modern oils are made for engines that are run on a daily basis with average mileage of 10,000 +annually, we all know that engines that are not run regularly have more duress and services should be more frequent. With oil being relatively cheap it is a good safeguard to change the oil which will lead to healthier longer lasting engine with what should be less sludge so more efficient. Of course you don't have to do that.

With your mileage personally I don't think it would make a lot of difference what you do. If you like peace of mind then I would change it and it can't do any harm. If not I'm sure it will be fine.

I don't think it will make much difference either as the S&S engine is dry sumped and most of the oil will just sit in the tank. Some new "clean" oil in contact with the engine may help but at such low mileage the oil should still be good. Not much point doing Lowebirds part fill, it's not going to flow over any of the engine as you top the oil tank up.

+1
Indeed, and as the oil pump wears over time it can let oil dribble through to collect in the crankcase when stored. (Wet sumping)
Better to remove sump plug when stored to let it drain free and impose less stress on internals when next started.

I claim zero expertise, and have not as much as sat in a M3W...Though have owned a few m/cycles in my time...(-:

It seems Britmog`s thinking and my own are close to identical... perhaps we have read the same fake news... (-:

So for me it would be fresh oil, engine fired up to circulate it and hopefully flush any containments left from the old oil, and leave it that. I would perhaps not leave the sump plug out, as oil build up in the crankcase causes me no concerns....HOWEVER, the wake up process would seem to be one well worth considering...?

Me..? First things first, I have no love for the digitally internal controlled combustion engine, (ICE) which can be so easily confused when it`s sensors supply values to it`s ECU which it is not programmed to receive...? The ECU recovery process may involve power down and back up to return it to a measure of it`s understanding of sanity..?

With the ECU out of the programme....I would have the spark plugs out, drain the oil from the sump, restore the oil level in the tank and spin the engine until oil pressure was confirmed as being present, and for that to have happened you know that the oil has now been circulated to all areas of the engine that are in need of it.. I ever think of that/those poor old valve springs lying part way compressed and the valve faces held off their seats and exposed to possible damp air for months and months. The bores similarly exposed where one or more of the valves are opened.. But then I live in a very damp climate.

Having spun the engine and had confirmation that oil has circulated, and everything has had a chance to move once again without being under combustion pressures, and with no screeching or clatter, heard I would then be then happy to awake the engine from it`s slumbers..?

I leave it to the digitally aware to educate me as to why it might be considered impossible to perform what used to be a VERY simple process on my old m/cycles and cars..

Just thinking in type

Change the oil & consider starting it till warm a few times over the winter & move it around or jack it up so bearings & tyres are not under same pressure point. Also leave hand brake off & operate brakes occasionally. Get a battery minder/charger.