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P964 #604056 18/11/19 03:53 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
Just Getting Started
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Dan , Luddite, thanks for your comments.

There is a cruch sleeve between the two bearings ....

When mounting the complete set (cleaned and oiled) and tighten the Nut by Hand , I can't feel any clearance ...
So if I doesn't get a specific torque info here, I will tighten the nut with something around 15 Nm and fix it .

I'm wondering that nobody had that question before , because anytime you replace the BB sealing on the pinion that Nut MUST be removed (and tighten afterwards).

P964 #604071 18/11/19 05:52 PM
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Not knowing anything about the whole set-up, I am wondering why there is a need for a pre-load on the bearings... if it were a diff, then I can see the reason for preload affecting aspects of it`s operation in terms of switching drive from wheel to wheel, but if this is a drive to one wheel ...?

Found this which may be of interest, I note the mention of staking the thread to the nut, which seems a tad rudimentary compared to the use of a tab washer or castellated nut etc...?

http://forum.jdrace.com/viewtopic.php?t=168

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Originally Posted by Luddite
Not knowing anything about the whole set-up, I am wondering why there is a need for a pre-load on the bearings... if it were a diff, then I can see the reason for preload affecting aspects of it`s operation in terms of switching drive from wheel to wheel, but if this is a drive to one wheel ...?

Found this which may be of interest, I note the mention of staking the thread to the nut, which seems a tad rudimentary compared to the use of a tab washer or castellated nut etc...?

http://forum.jdrace.com/viewtopic.php?t=168


Luddite,

This IS a differential only without the axle shafts. So no wheel bearing setups on this.

When a crush sleeve is used, typically you never reuse the crush sleeve, buy a new one and then crush the hell out of it while all the time monitoring the resistance to rotational torque. The only time you can get a way with reusing the crush sleeve is when replacing the pinion seal. In that case you scribe the pinion nut to the pinion shaft threads, remove and replace the seal and then retighten back down until the scribe mark lines up again. Theoretically you've not "changed" the pinion preload in doing it this way.

I'll take a look at the BB rebuild and reassemble thread and learn something I'm sure. Thanks for posting it.


Dan
P964 #604118 19/11/19 08:50 AM
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Thanks Nippymog, for posting the link back to the original BB discussion from the pics contained therein I was able to gain more of an idea as to the layout of the components.

Dan, many thanks for taking time to respond to my ramble, I come here to pass time, chat and hopefully keep the old grey matter active to some degree...I am NO expert, and have only seen pics a M3W.

Seems that a bevel box lacks the complexity of a diff, no planetary gears as in a normal diff or clutch mechanisms and the likes as in an LSD..? T

he BB seems more akin to the bevel drives to the OHC on old Ducati`s that I owned many years ago, boy they made some noise when the mesh on the bevel gears developed play as the resultant hammer in the drive from the valve-gear operation would crush the shims over time to increase the play in the mesh of the bevel gears which would then further increase the noise/hammer effect...

Seems to me that in the M3W BB set-up a similar hammer effect may be experienced by the shimming utilised to adjust the bevel gear mesh, as the result of acceleration and deceleration loads....? Again only working from the pictures, I am still left wondering at the need for pre-load as determining that the bearings have seated correctly..OR indeed the accuracy of the mesh adjustment..?

Looking at http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/24422/filename/025.JPG that to me looks like a shim designed to determine the mesh of the bevel gears..?

Looking at http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/24372/filename/034.JPG I can see the general layout of the BB from which it seems possible that the mesh of the bevel gears could be affected by whether or not gasket material was utilised in the joint between the input bevel gear casing assembly and the main body of the unit..?

If no gasket is used in this machined joint then my assumption would be that the longitudinal position of the bevel gear shaft in the input assembly casing would be critical and as such pre defined by precise machining with at least one shim utilised to adjust for manufacturing tolerances in terms of determination of the critical mesh between both gears..?

With any play in the mesh, then I suspect hammer(clunk) will become obvious when in the transition from acceleration to over-run and vice versa..?

With no play and too much pressure applied in the mesh of the gears I suspect they will generate excessive heat as the result of the increased friction incurred...?

I note in the original thread that Peter J typed of cush drive.... Ideal for removing shock from drive trains. Lotus utilised rubber doughnuts in their half shafts to achieve this and old m/cycles oft times had rubber inserts built into the clutch centres to take the shock out of the drive line, with something like this it would seem that the possible hammer effect on the BB system could be considerably reduced, unless there is some other similar system built in elsewhere...?

I suspect the belt drive may be an improvement on the whip effect that a chain drive could feed back into such a system....?

Overtightening the belt would seem to also add a degree of stress into the output shaft BB bearings and those of the swinging arm bushes..?

Interesting stuff... Thanks for posting, happy to continue discussing if thought to be food for thought...?

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