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Joined: Nov 2018
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xc68anc Offline OP
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The germans... A little bit silly ;-)

In cause of their good looking I change some tools of my Morgan.

So I buy a brass spanner for the centernuts of the wheels. I my eyes it wasn't only good looking, may be it's better to beat with a brass spanner on the chrome than the factory tool. This one is my toolbox:



http://shop.mwsint.com/product_details.asp?id=179

And I also change the hammer to this one:


https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/classic/03-212bh.html

But now I want to undo the wheels and don't know how to use it. The manual how to turn the nut is practical engraved on the nut, but now must the copperside hit the brass spanner oder the leatherside?

Is there a difference when I close the nut?

René


2018 plus4 (sports green)
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If using a spanner on a hexagonal wheel nut, use the copper end. If working directly on 2 or 3 eared spinners, use the hide end, to avoid damage to the spinner.


Doug
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If I'm reading correctly the question is which face of the hammer to use.
I would use the copper face for removal and the hide side for fitting.
This because the spinners will tighten themselves (as long as they are fitted to the correct side of the car as marked)
I'm guessing because I've never used one, I use a wooden saver. Someone with more experience will give you a definite answer.


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I always use a thick leather pad even using a copper/hide hammer on eared spinners


DaveW
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Originally Posted by Deejay
If using a spanner on a hexagonal wheel nut, use the copper end. If working directly on 2 or 3 eared spinners, use the hide end, to avoid damage to the spinner.


Agree

I once used the copper side directly on a spinner on my first Mog and regretted it as it put a dent in the spinner. It didn’t look terrible but I knew it was there

There are some rubber hammers available that have weights inside the head which give some extra power. A few Mog owners swear by them. Budster recons these are quite a bit better than the traditional copper/leather hammer


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I really don't worry too much about denting the spinner. I take it as evidence that some maintenance has been carried out!

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Originally Posted by Max5
I really don't worry too much about denting the spinner. I take it as evidence that some maintenance has been carried out!


thumbs


Tim H.
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I quickly came to the conclusion given need to remove wheels regularly for cleaning, that a tool with adequate leverage provided least damage and best accuracy in removing/tightening spinners. There are solutions for both hex and eared spinners. I use a modified MG tool which fits nicely in my tool tray.


Richard

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At home and on ’customer’ cars I use a large and heavy Thor double white nylon, it chews the end caps but they are cheap and easy to change (still last 5 years at least) in UK like this
https://leachs.net/thor-nylon-hamme...BiMHNAikgNK3qHK78-0mLzqhUQBoCVLsQAvD_BwE

Out and about if needed I would use the hide side first and if it moved fine if not turn the hammer over. Remember to tighten only needs a medium weight tap as they self tighten, tap up to centralise wheel off ground, lower and a couple of Donks (technical term ;-)) to nip up and a hard brake first stop. Job done.

BR
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[quote=xc68anc]

So I buy a brass spanner for the centernuts of the wheels. I my eyes it wasn't only good looking, may be it's better to beat with a brass spanner on the chrome than the factory tool. This one is my toolbox:

http://shop.mwsint.com/product_details.asp?id=179

/quote]

Agree about the spanner, grips wheel nut well and does not allow you to easily overtighten.

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